When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1964 F100 with a not original 223 6 cylinder. replaced timing chain set, made sure dots lined up, but the rotor is pointing at #4 instead of # 1 when at TDC. shouldn't it be pointing at #1? what am i missing? also need advice on valve adjustment procudure...any help greatly appreciated!
one need to be very carefull with some older motors they are some times dot to bottom and top 6 and 12 oclock or as said above 6 and 12 oclock. some you even had to count the links between the dots valve adjustment i don't remember off hand but best way is to tap the starter till both are free and do 1 cyl. at a time. again thats a motor i didn't work on much in my days so i'm a bit weak on it. best to get your hands on a shop manual and copy the pages
Pull the #1 spark plug and valve cover. Rotate the engine until the cylinder is at top dead center. Once it is then rotate the cam shaft until the intake is past closed. The theory is that the cam and piston will be at the firing point. This will give you an idea of where the timing marks are supposed to be in a pinch unless some one has the actual asnwer.
Y-blocks and 223's are timed with marks on the sprockets and the chain. On your 6, get both marks on the upper, drive side, and line a mark on the chain with the marked tooth on each sprocket. Some aftermarket chains don't seem to have marks. In that case, there must be 12 pins between the marks.
Just one of Henry's better ideas!
BTW, the last 223's used a gear drive and reverse rotation camshaft.
Oops! forgot to add, valve clearance is .015 hot, intake and exhaust. Best way to set 'em is---get one cylinder at TDC, split overlap (Exhaust closing, intake opening) and set the valves on the one 180 deg. away in the firing order (153624). EG, #1 split O'lap,set #6, #5 split, set #2, etc. Once you have one done, turn the crank 1/3 turn for the next one.
Oops! forgot to add, valve clearance is .015 hot, intake and exhaust. Best way to set 'em is---get one cylinder at TDC, split overlap (Exhaust closing, intake opening) and set the valves on the one 180 deg. away in the firing order (153624). EG, #1 split O'lap,set #6, #5 split, set #2, etc. Once you have one done, turn the crank 1/3 turn for the next one.
this wrong, lash should be .019, intake and exhuast
Y-blocks and 223's are timed with marks on the sprockets and the chain. On your 6, get both marks on the upper, drive side, and line a mark on the chain with the marked tooth on each sprocket. Some aftermarket chains don't seem to have marks. In that case, there must be 12 pins between the marks.
Just one of Henry's better ideas!
BTW, the last 223's used a gear drive and reverse rotation camshaft.
forgive my being dense, not sure i understand the method you describe. what is the upper, drive side? the replacement chain has no marks, so i need to know what pins you are referring to....chain links, maybe? i love these forums, but sometimes i have trouble with textual explanations versus verbal. your help is really appreciated!
lay the sprockets on the workbench with both timing marks pointing the same direction and place the chain around them, move one sprocket around untill you can count 12 pins BETWEEN the two timing marks and then mark the chain with some paint or something that will stay on it long enough to install it. where ever the distributor is pointing once the timing is done is where number one will wire from.
The marks must be on the right hand side of the sprockets. The key in the crank will be facing straight up, the key on the cam straight down. The twelve pins are the pins in the chain. Look closely at both sides of the chain, there are likely small dots on two of the plates on one side only.
thanks, guys, i got it now. i swear, i must have replaced 150 timing chains/belts in my life....just when you think you can get comfortable, you learn something new! cool! will follow up after trying again. thanks!!!!
I really appreciate all of the help on such a simple topic, folks. Just have one last question - I would prefer to adjust the valves while I have everything apart i.e. while they are cold. Anyone know the cold lash setting for the 223?
Also - what is the best way to post photos here? My '64 is definitely a "hooptie", but I still like to show her off!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.