351M temp fluctuating
Seen quite a few in the junk yards too around here for the 1970's trucks. The lids (sort of like a mason or the old type mayonaise jar lids) were all rusted out on the wrecker ones I've seen.
I think it was offered in one of the optional cooling packages.
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As for the wandering guages, Oil, Temp, Fuel guages peg. Smacking the top of the dash usually clears up this problem for a time. But this is annoying for me. "Smack-punch-smack" the dash isn't always comforting to your passengers.

The cause of this is usually the instrument cluster Voltage regulator on the cluster, (Hooks to the cluster printed circut with 9V battery type connectors.)
The cluster voltage regulator looses ground, and the guages peg. Smacking the dash can cause the intermittent ground fault to correct for a time.
For a more viable solution, and no more violence.
, you can get a piece of automotive electrical wire, "Perferably Color Black, Ford's Circut #57 Ground wire color" and two eyelit connectors. 1: Cut about two feet or less of wire and crimp the eyelit connectors on each end of the wire.
2: Where the cluster voltage regulator is bolted to the plastic "little bolt headed screw" unscrew the screw and hook one end of the wire you made to that screw and screw the voltage regulator back down to the cluster making sure the eyelit of the wire you made is between the regulator, and the screw head, and not the regulator and the Printed circut.
3: Attach the other end of the wire you made to a good grounding point. Say the metal on the dash.
This should eliminate the guage wandering problem, and give you more accurate guages, and even brighter dash lights too.
Hope this helps.
The cause of this is usually the instrument cluster Voltage regulator on the cluster, (Hooks to the cluster printed circut with 9V battery type connectors.)
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It looks like this:

You can see the mounting screw on the bracket.
Sometimes "Just Cleaning up the PC board" with electrical cleaner makes it like it should again
Last edited by Mil1ion; Jul 17, 2006 at 12:56 AM.
When I had the belts off I turned the water pump by hand. It didn't seem too hard to turn. Is it possible that I need a new fan pulley? I didn't have this problem before changing the water pump but that doesn't seem to be the problem.
I'm assuming that the belt slipping is causing a flow problem that is causing it to run hotter than it should.
Any ideas?
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