Steering column slid down
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Junior User
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From: Northwestern corner of VA
Steering column slid down
I have a '65 Econoline van and discovered that the steering column has slid down about 1/2 inch, which caused the shifter to lock up. I have taken the steering wheel off and the clamp at the bottom of the column but I don't see why the column slipped down and I don't know what to do to fix the problem. The horn activation piece got destroyed because when the column dropped, it slipped out of its hole and the copper finger got separated from the copper wire.
all alone in the world
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: oklahoma
hmmmm, didnt know they had that much movement in them. bout all you can do is reassemble it, and and use the top bolts to hold it up. then tighten the clamp at the bottom.
is the steering box ok? i have seen the shaft "walk" up out of some. they usually get real fun to drive before that happens tho!
you might want to pull the whole thing out of the van and put it together on the floor, that way you can get a better look at everything.
is the steering box ok? i have seen the shaft "walk" up out of some. they usually get real fun to drive before that happens tho!
you might want to pull the whole thing out of the van and put it together on the floor, that way you can get a better look at everything.
Last edited by Jimbare; Jul 7, 2006 at 08:56 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Delisle/Vanscoy, Sk.
Are the steering box bolts still in place?. I really don't know how the colunm would go down unless it unbolted itself off the frame. The shaft is one solid peice right into the steering box. You must be still turning the wheels. If not the worm gear may of broke or slid out of place in the box. That may explain the 1/2 in drop.
If the box is still on the frame. You may have to change steering boxes and see what happens then.
If the box is still on the frame. You may have to change steering boxes and see what happens then.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Northwestern corner of VA
Sorry I did not explain this better. It is not the shaft that slid down, it is the outside sleeve that slid down. The shaft into the steering box has not moved (or so it seems; I checked it out after I took the steering wheel out and it does not move). What moved before I took it apart was the sleeve; I could move it up and down about 3/4 of an inch. The movement downward of the sleeve caused a big gap between the steering wheel and the turn signal bowl. This in turn allowed the horn contact to slip out of its hole and it is now broken (the copper finger separated from the copper braided wire). I thought that I could use the clamp at the bottom to adjust the slop but I see there is a nub on the clamp that goes into a hole in the sleeve. Should that clamp at the bottom of the sleeve, upon loosing, pulling up on the sleeve and retightening keep the sleeve in position? Thanks for your help.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Delisle/Vanscoy, Sk.
This makes more sense. Yes the clamp at the bottom holds the tube up in place. So it came loose somehow. Make sure the bolts are not stripped a little that can cause it to loosen again. The tube slips over the top of the steering box and when you have it at the correct height Tighten the clamp. It should catch some of the steering box thus pinching the tube to the top of the box.
Also there should be a support bracket just under the steeringwheel. This should be bolted to the tube also by 2 bolts and the bracket is bolted to the dash. It sounds like this may not be bolted in also. These 2 things should prevent the tube from slidding down.
GLEN
Also there should be a support bracket just under the steeringwheel. This should be bolted to the tube also by 2 bolts and the bracket is bolted to the dash. It sounds like this may not be bolted in also. These 2 things should prevent the tube from slidding down.
GLEN
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Northwestern corner of VA
Thanks for the reply. After taking the sleeve and attached shifter out, inspecting, cleaning and greasing everything that needed greased, and reassembling it, there is a minute gap between the turn signal bowl and the steering wheel. Plus there is no more binding shifting from first to second. It shifts smooooothly. Now I need a replacement radiator because Junior's has sprung a leak for the second time and I would like one that is more robust.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Delisle/Vanscoy, Sk.
Rads form the Falcon cars are the same size as the econo's, only the brackets are different. They bolt on the other way. The 65's have a larger rad. I take it have it recored by a good rad shop. Then you know you will not have any leaks for a long time.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Delisle/Vanscoy, Sk.
Well the price varies from place to place. The shop I deal with here charges about $100 up to 300. depending on what you want and need done. The more cores you have put in the more expensive it gets. A friend had his truck go from a single core to a 5 core rad. It cost him about $500, but that included removal and installation.
If you have the rad out take it to a couple of your local shops and inquire or over the phone to get an idea.
Is it the lip that is leaking? That can be easy fix. They just take the top off and clean the seat and resolder it back on.
If you have the rad out take it to a couple of your local shops and inquire or over the phone to get an idea.
Is it the lip that is leaking? That can be easy fix. They just take the top off and clean the seat and resolder it back on.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Northwestern corner of VA
Yes, it is the lip that spung the leak. I don't know much about radiators; when you say "go from a single core to a 5 core rad", is that supposed to provide more cooling surface in the same space, using the existing reservior?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Delisle/Vanscoy, Sk.
Yep it keeps the vehicle cooler. It is mostly put in when persons use the truck for heavy work like pulling trailers where the truck will heat more or long distance drives.
The lip of the tank is a easy repair for most of these shops as long as the core does not leak.
Check with anyone who in your area that does rods or restores who they trust and go to. If some shops find out you don't know much they will give use a story and get more work done than you want.
Although it is good to have the rad cleaned and pressure tested when they do the lip of the tank. That way the rad will be like a new one afterwards.
The lip of the tank is a easy repair for most of these shops as long as the core does not leak.
Check with anyone who in your area that does rods or restores who they trust and go to. If some shops find out you don't know much they will give use a story and get more work done than you want.
Although it is good to have the rad cleaned and pressure tested when they do the lip of the tank. That way the rad will be like a new one afterwards.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Northwestern corner of VA
Thanks. I will keep your suggestions in mind when I tackle this problem. I am also going to replace all the hoses which I should be able to pick up locally. As I have the belly pan off, I noticed the brake return spring and the clutch arm return springs are very rusty. I would like to replace them too. Any suggestions as to where I should get them or are the usual suspects (D Carpenter, Mac's, etc.) the better source. Or are these something I could pick locally as well?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,402
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From: Delisle/Vanscoy, Sk.
Those springs should not be too much of a problem. They are not very strong springs. If they don't pull the shifter rods and pedals back or look like they been streched. I would not replace them. Clean them up and repaint with rust paint. I do not know of any suppliers of those springs.
