ignition switch and shift knob problems
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Freshman User
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ignition switch and shift **** problems
Hi all;
Got a few questions .....
The vehicle is a 94 Splash.
Ignition switch. The chrome surround turns independently of the key switch, will rotate 360 degrees. It will even turn to the acc position and start the radio but not start the truck. This was not a big deal but today it wouldn't allow the key into the slot to start the truck without a great deal of messing about. Not good. Do I need a complete ignition switch assembly, if I order one will it include this part or is there a pin or other mechanical link sheared off and replaceable? Just want to have everything I need on hand before taking it apart.
Shifter ****: The truck came with an 8 Ball shift ****. Cool but no shift pattern and this one is way different than my VW's so my wife gets confused. The OEM **** was in the glove box and the 8 ball came off with a few set screws so I put the OEM back on. It immediately broke completely apart inside and is kinda limp now. There is a white plastic sleeve on the shift lever with splines that match the lever and the OEM **** ID seems a little tight to this sleeve but there's no other way I see for this to go together. Sound right to you all?
thanks in advance
Got a few questions .....
The vehicle is a 94 Splash.
Ignition switch. The chrome surround turns independently of the key switch, will rotate 360 degrees. It will even turn to the acc position and start the radio but not start the truck. This was not a big deal but today it wouldn't allow the key into the slot to start the truck without a great deal of messing about. Not good. Do I need a complete ignition switch assembly, if I order one will it include this part or is there a pin or other mechanical link sheared off and replaceable? Just want to have everything I need on hand before taking it apart.
Shifter ****: The truck came with an 8 Ball shift ****. Cool but no shift pattern and this one is way different than my VW's so my wife gets confused. The OEM **** was in the glove box and the 8 ball came off with a few set screws so I put the OEM back on. It immediately broke completely apart inside and is kinda limp now. There is a white plastic sleeve on the shift lever with splines that match the lever and the OEM **** ID seems a little tight to this sleeve but there's no other way I see for this to go together. Sound right to you all?
thanks in advance
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
You'll need a new ignition cylinder best I can tell...there's not much you could replace for that. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
The white plastic sleeve needs to come off for the shift **** to fit correctly, and you'll need some silicone or the like to properly seal it on as the stock glue is crap.
RP
Zach
The white plastic sleeve needs to come off for the shift **** to fit correctly, and you'll need some silicone or the like to properly seal it on as the stock glue is crap.
RP
Zach
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Thanks Zach.
Do you mean that the plastic sleeve is removed completely or just fit to the **** before install? The **** is loose as heck to the shift lever so I assume you mean the sleeve is inserted into the **** before install onto the lever.
I was hoping to salvage something from the ig switch assembly. Dealer item, you think?
Do you mean that the plastic sleeve is removed completely or just fit to the **** before install? The **** is loose as heck to the shift lever so I assume you mean the sleeve is inserted into the **** before install onto the lever.
I was hoping to salvage something from the ig switch assembly. Dealer item, you think?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Slatington PA
the plastic sleeve should pull straight off, it's not easy, i used a gear puller, about half an hour later, i pulled it off, along with some skin. get rid of the cracked shifter ****, go to a dealer, and get a new one, then take a dead blow (or rubber mallet) and gentely hammer it on. the splins should be vertical, so it wont be too much truble putting it on. you could put glue on it, i didn't and dont have any problems.
p.s. dont try and rebuild the shifter ****. it wont work, you cant glue it, tape it, or use any starterk like devices to hold them together. my freind had one and we tried to make his work again, and tried making a new one out of delron. both didn't work.
p.s. dont try and rebuild the shifter ****. it wont work, you cant glue it, tape it, or use any starterk like devices to hold them together. my freind had one and we tried to make his work again, and tried making a new one out of delron. both didn't work.
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Originally Posted by Alan D.
the plastic sleeve should pull straight off, it's not easy, i used a gear puller, about half an hour later, i pulled it off, along with some skin. get rid of the cracked shifter ****, go to a dealer, and get a new one, then take a dead blow (or rubber mallet) and gentely hammer it on. the splins should be vertical, so it wont be too much truble putting it on. you could put glue on it, i didn't and dont have any problems.
p.s. dont try and rebuild the shifter ****. it wont work, you cant glue it, tape it, or use any starterk like devices to hold them together. my freind had one and we tried to make his work again, and tried making a new one out of delron. both didn't work.
p.s. dont try and rebuild the shifter ****. it wont work, you cant glue it, tape it, or use any starterk like devices to hold them together. my freind had one and we tried to make his work again, and tried making a new one out of delron. both didn't work.
I did try the old super glue trick on the old **** and it just fractured again even though I was fairly gentle putting it on over the sleeve.
Ok, off to the dealer. Guess I need a shift **** and a ignition switch.
thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
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From: Eastern WA
You need a new ignition lock cylinder (not a new switch). You can buy them aftermarket or at the dealer, If you want to maintain the current one key setup, take your current key along with you; many dealers can take care of the key issue at the time you buy the new lock cylinder. Otherwise, and unless the aftermarket parts house can cut keys, you will need to find a place that cuts keys so you can get back to having to use just one key. Also, shift ***** are fairly cheap at the dealer. The correct installation was noted, as was the outcome of attempts to permanently repair the old one.
*If you fail to take care of the ignition lock cylinder soon, there will come a point in time that you will get the *surprise* of not being able to start it. You've gotten your warning now by how it's acting; it won't get better. I've got a buddy who insisted on learning the hard way
.
*If you fail to take care of the ignition lock cylinder soon, there will come a point in time that you will get the *surprise* of not being able to start it. You've gotten your warning now by how it's acting; it won't get better. I've got a buddy who insisted on learning the hard way
.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
888 if you want, you can go to Autozone, they have a "Help!" section that typically has an older black Chevy Replacement Shift ****. It'd just a tad smaller than our shift **** and looks great, it's what I replaced mine with after mine plopped off in my hand, the Texas heat kills the glue. It has no shift pattern.
A lot cheaper than the dealer **** though.
RP
Zach
A lot cheaper than the dealer **** though.
RP
Zach
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Thread Starter
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Thanks Zach, already went to the dealer and got the **** and switch w/keys. Replacement **** was a lot different, big husky SOB, need to put it on.
The switch came with instructions, I don't have a manual so I hope they're right. Looks like I pull the neg cable, fish around for a spring loaded release pin with a 1/8" punch and the whole thing slides out. Reverse for installation.
Sound about right?
The switch came with instructions, I don't have a manual so I hope they're right. Looks like I pull the neg cable, fish around for a spring loaded release pin with a 1/8" punch and the whole thing slides out. Reverse for installation.
Sound about right?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 478
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From: ut
Instructions sound the same as what's in the Haynes manual. My lock cylinder is loose, but sounds like not quite as loose as yours. I had the column cover off and couldn't find the hole where the release pin is! Just as well. I haven't bought a new cylinder yet. I'd be interested if you find the release pin. Maybe I'm blind...but probably just impatient! BTW...mines a 94 too.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Slatington PA
The new **** should be around 1.5 in. o.d. i looked at 8-ball shift ***** on ebay, and if you have anything like i found (sounds like it), that is considerably smaller than the o.e.m. replacment.