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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Power Window Problems

Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:17 AM
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Power Window Problems

I just bought a 1993 F-150 XLT. The power windows don't work. I can't here the window motor running. I click both left and right switches and nothing happens. Anyone have a similar problem? Could this be electrical?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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check the fuses? otherwise check the wiring that runs between the door and the cab, i have seen them break over time from opening and closing the doors,
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 05:09 PM
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You may have the same problem I have managed to repair and patch enough to get by until I can get new motors. The brushes tend to wear out on the motors in the trucks faster than they do on the cars for some reason. I have an '86 Bird that still has original motors, albeit I've had to replace the drive pawls. I have a 92 F-150, and the motors have really gone downhill in the past couple years. Looking to get a couple more when I resolve more significant issues.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 10:06 PM
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that could be possiable but doubt that both motors are bad, though one could have been dead for a while and the other not that long ago. if anything get a jumper wire and run power to the motors and see if they are good or bad
 
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by aprice
that could be possiable but doubt that both motors are bad, though one could have been dead for a while and the other not that long ago. if anything get a jumper wire and run power to the motors and see if they are good or bad
Oops, perhaps I should open the eyes, read, and engage brain before I open my mouth, er, wiggle my fingers, umm, WHATEVER.

Windows don't have a fuse. Circuit breaker, and it's in the inside fuse panel next to the steering column. Diagram should be on the door to the fuse panel. Pop out the breaker, and try a jumper if you like, but do yourself a favor, and fuse the wire, even if it's a 30 amp fuse. If you have a short in the harness, this will at least help you avoid setting the truck on fire, or at the very least prevent you from erasing your fingerprints with a very hot wire. One breaker for both windows, by the way. If the fuse blows when you put it across the socket for the breaker, I strongly recommend not doing it again until you find the short circuit. If it doesn't blow, and you still can't move the window, then you've got a broken wire, which can be harder to find than a short circuit unless you have access to both ends of the wire. On a Ford, just because it's pink with a chartrues tracer where it starts, that does NOT mean it will be that color when it gets to what it controls.

If your diagram or legend isn't on the panel any more, I could check my 92. This is something that isn't gonna move from year to year. Maybe after a body change, but Ford doesn't do that often.

On the other hand, both of my motors went out pretty much at the same time (and both times they've quit). Thank goodness for the little vents in my '92. Getting them out the first time is the hardest. A Dremel tool with cutoff disks and a drift punch to knock out the rivets works pretty good, though. If you try to drill into the rivet, make sure you have a bit that doesn't mind some extremely hard steel in the middle of that nice soft looking aluminum rivet. I toasted the ends off three bits before I decided on the Dremel approach. When you put them back, the holes are just the right size for 1/4-20 x 1" bolts. I used stainless bolts so they'll never rust, and I can get the motors back out when need be. They are a maintenance item, unfortunately. Especially if you prefer fresh air over A/C like me.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 02:31 PM
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Try cleaning the contacts on the switch. Thats all I had to do. I used some fine sandpaper and it worked fine.
 
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