1983 F-150 A/C Problems
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: West Lafayette, IN
1983 F-150 A/C Problems
Okay, I finally got my system recharged with new seals and all the goods. Everything works just fine!!
But I have a small problem that I would like the address to make the system work a little bit better.
My problem is in the Temperature control slider. The cable is to short. From the controls inside the truck, the maximum temperature change I can get is from maximum hot, to about 2/3 cold. I took the unit out of the dash, but was not able to adjust the cable to make it any longer to allow it to go full hot to full cold.
Does anyone know how I might be able to fix this?? I would replace the entire cable, but I do not know where it attaches itself once it goes through the firewall. I think it might be going to the evaporator or something, but not for sure.
thanks,
Rex Buchanan
But I have a small problem that I would like the address to make the system work a little bit better.
My problem is in the Temperature control slider. The cable is to short. From the controls inside the truck, the maximum temperature change I can get is from maximum hot, to about 2/3 cold. I took the unit out of the dash, but was not able to adjust the cable to make it any longer to allow it to go full hot to full cold.
Does anyone know how I might be able to fix this?? I would replace the entire cable, but I do not know where it attaches itself once it goes through the firewall. I think it might be going to the evaporator or something, but not for sure.
thanks,
Rex Buchanan
Postmaster
Joined: May 2004
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I suspect it's the right cable, but just not taking the shortest route.
Has it always been like this?
Maybe the door on the other end is the problem....it is a Ford you know!
I gave up on my '83 A/C years ago....too many years.
Has it always been like this?
Maybe the door on the other end is the problem....it is a Ford you know!
I gave up on my '83 A/C years ago....too many years.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
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From: Niceville, FL.
Maybe something jamming the blend door. My wifes old Chevette years ago wouldn't go to full cold until I took it all apart and found the spare keys and two ball point pens that had fallen down the defroster duct.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 32
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From: West Lafayette, IN
Needs Blend Door Adjustment Cable!!!
Here is an update to my problem, actually it is a problem of finding the correct part.
I took the glove box out, so I could get a good look at the blend door mechanism, and the cable end. the actual cable is to short to allow it to fully extend to cold position. I unhooked the cable from the "red clip", and it was freely able to move all the way to max cold, which was about 10 degrees colder than about 1/4" to the right. I guess Hot air is about 100x stronger that the A/C system.
So this is my problem, I need a new, un tampered with Temperature cable. This is the cable that extends from the back of the A/C Instrument gauges, and the way to the blend door.
Some previous owner must have cut the end off of the old cable, in adjustment for some reason, which makes it too short to go max cold.
I would just use any old cable, but it looks like the ends of the sheathing have a special clip that allows it to hook correctly in the spots. I tried taking these ends off, but they are incorporated with the sheathing.
Please let me know if you can help me find this cable.
I have looked on blue oval truck parts, but with no luck.
Thanks.
I took the glove box out, so I could get a good look at the blend door mechanism, and the cable end. the actual cable is to short to allow it to fully extend to cold position. I unhooked the cable from the "red clip", and it was freely able to move all the way to max cold, which was about 10 degrees colder than about 1/4" to the right. I guess Hot air is about 100x stronger that the A/C system.
So this is my problem, I need a new, un tampered with Temperature cable. This is the cable that extends from the back of the A/C Instrument gauges, and the way to the blend door.
Some previous owner must have cut the end off of the old cable, in adjustment for some reason, which makes it too short to go max cold.
I would just use any old cable, but it looks like the ends of the sheathing have a special clip that allows it to hook correctly in the spots. I tried taking these ends off, but they are incorporated with the sheathing.
Please let me know if you can help me find this cable.
I have looked on blue oval truck parts, but with no luck.
Thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
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From: Niceville, FL.
Here is the temperature cable adjustment procedure quoted directly from the '83 Shop mamual:
"The temperature cable does not normally require adjustment. Cable operation can be checked by moving the temperature control lever all the way to the left, then all the way to the right. When released the lever should bounce back slightly at both ends of lever travel, indicating the blend door is sealing properly. If the lever does not bounce back at each end of travel proceed as follows: 1. Remove glove box compartment liner. 2. Remove push-on nut used to hold cable wire coil on blend door crank. 3. Remove cable attaching screw from plenum. 4. Two drill dimples can be seen on cable mounting flange. A. If lever did not bounce back at heat setting drill a 11/64" diameter hole in dimple closest to the blend door crank. B. If lever did not bounce back at cool setting drill a 11/64" diameter in hole furthest from the blend door crank. 5. Install cable using newly drilled hole. 6. Install push-on nut on blend door crank. 7. Check cable operation as described previously. 8. Install glove compartment liner". This procedure may cure your problem!
"The temperature cable does not normally require adjustment. Cable operation can be checked by moving the temperature control lever all the way to the left, then all the way to the right. When released the lever should bounce back slightly at both ends of lever travel, indicating the blend door is sealing properly. If the lever does not bounce back at each end of travel proceed as follows: 1. Remove glove box compartment liner. 2. Remove push-on nut used to hold cable wire coil on blend door crank. 3. Remove cable attaching screw from plenum. 4. Two drill dimples can be seen on cable mounting flange. A. If lever did not bounce back at heat setting drill a 11/64" diameter hole in dimple closest to the blend door crank. B. If lever did not bounce back at cool setting drill a 11/64" diameter in hole furthest from the blend door crank. 5. Install cable using newly drilled hole. 6. Install push-on nut on blend door crank. 7. Check cable operation as described previously. 8. Install glove compartment liner". This procedure may cure your problem!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
Not necessarily, the town's original name was "Boggy" but the major landowners changed it to try to sell more lots.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Temp Slide
I Had A Problem With Cable It Was Bent Before It Went Into The Housing , Our Local Ford Dealership Could Not Get A New Cable, So I Got A Choke Cabel And Housing And Made One, The Ends Of The Old One Will Come Off ,then Epoxy Them Back On The Neww Cable,mine Has Been Working For About 6 Months
Hope This Helps
Bud
Hope This Helps
Bud
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