Pyrometer NOT WORKING!!!
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Senior User
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From: CT
Pyrometer NOT WORKING!!!
Happy 4 of July, I figured Id install my gauges today. Got everything done nice and neat, and my pyrometer reads between 175 and 245. This cant be a normal temp at WOT, or just puttering around. I know all the wires are right and were done as per the instructions. What could be wrong?
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Concord NC
Originally Posted by VQ2Fast4U
Happy 4 of July, I figured Id install my gauges today. Got everything done nice and neat, and my pyrometer reads between 175 and 245. This cant be a normal temp at WOT, or just puttering around. I know all the wires are right and were done as per the instructions. What could be wrong?
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
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From: Concord NC
Short of a bad gauge or probe, the only thing that comes to mind is wires grounding out some where. Maybe where the probe and yellow wire attaches together are touching the truck?????? If you can't find a problem, contact Garrett at Pure Diesel Power and he will help you. And yes the temps should be in the 350+ range anytime you are moving, and 900+ at WOT.
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From: CT
I just rechecked everything, and theres nothing wrong that I can see so it must be a bad gauge. I removed it and called pure diesel, they must not be in today. I just hope I can get this solved quick and painless. This really killed my 4 of July.
Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Concord NC
One more thing that may cause the problem would be a bad connection on ground or switched 12 volt supply. Don't use you LED light wires as you 12 volt supply. I ran the ground seperate also. I would think a weak ground or weak 12 volt supply would present similar problems. Just a thought.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Apply your 12v. signal to the gauge without hooking up the thermocouple leads. The gauge should read room temperature if it's working.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: 21791
you didn't cut any of the yellow wire to the thermocouple, did you?
if you have excess, roll it up and tie it out of the way.
if you have excess, roll it up and tie it out of the way.
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From: Mount Vernon, Washington
I have the same problem. I contacted Bill Agha and explained that my pyrometer read very low also. He said that it seems there is a batch of them that are bad. My tranny temp is also bad. Even at startup after overnight it will peg past 250 very quickly. He was very nice and was sending me out new gauges and sensors to cover all the bases. Hold onto your original boxes to send back the bad gauges. That is what I call customer service. No arguements, just sent out the gauges. I'll do business with him again. Here is his email address and let him know your name, address, phone numbers and type of gauge. I'm sure he'll fix you up quickly. If you want to tell him you talked to me.....
Marty
Marty
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From: CT
Well after installing a second pyrometer it still doesnt work. Ive been talking to Garrett and Bill who are very helpfull. I figured out that the probe is grounding out, but after doing so the pyro now reads 75 deg when the truck is off. The probe would ground when I hit the key, the gauge would go counter clockwise and sit at about 7 oclock. Ive had enough! I must have spent over 10hrs trying to figure out whats wrong, what did "I" do that made this happen, when it has be autometers garbage product. I hope that the 3rd time around its going to work, because I dont know what else to do.
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From: Elkhorn, WI
are you sure you spliced into the correct wires? if you accidentally tapped into a ground you would have a double ground and probably cause your guage to go bad. i think it is grounding out somewhere. you can run a jumper wire directly to your battery to test the power source but disconnect the source you are using now and run the power wire right from the guage to the battery. that would tell you if it was a ground or power issue, but my guess it is in the wiring
Last edited by Muktown; Jul 7, 2006 at 07:05 PM.
Postmaster
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Hang in there man, you'll get it. I had a problem with my ISSPRO pyro but it eventually worked out. As long as you keep getting the customer service keep your head in the game. You'll figure it out and then be able to pass it on to the next FTEer when needed.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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From: Mount Vernon, Washington
I'll know tomorrow if my replacements work or not. I agree with Orezona though, keep at it. The way I look at it is Autometer has been at this for a long time and all I've read has been positive in regards to their product. If they had a run of some bad meters that were manufactured for them, I'm willing to try and be patient. Of course I'm saying this now. I may have something else to say after tomorrow if mine still don't work... 
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From: CT
I know I have it wired correctly because my trans temp works fine, and Im using the same wires for the pyro. I will say this, if it wasnt for the great customer service from Garett and Bill, I dont know what I would do. Also I bench tested the 2nd pyro gauge, everything go's great until the probe or braided steel over the wires touch anything metal. If I wire it up and put a lighter to the tip of the probe while holding it in my hand the gauge will work great, its as soon as it comes in contact with anything metal. I looked over the wiring all day before work "I work 3rd shift" and everythings where it should be. I just cant belive I got 2 bad pyros. Sorry if im ranting
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From: Mount Vernon, Washington
VQ2Fast4U,
Just a suggestion. What I did was check the yellow wire for short or open wires. This way you can at least rule out the yellow wire, that way knowing it wasn't your wiring that's causing the problem. Mine checked ok, so it has to be the meter or sensor. How you describe your testing I'd lean towards the sensor, but without seeing a schematic of the meter, I wouldn't totally rule it out either. Hopefully Bill and Garett are on top of it as much as they can be. They still are relying on what has been manufactured for them by someone else, so they can only have so much control over the products. I'm willing to bet there will be some talks between them and the manufacturer once this is squared away.
Marty
Just a suggestion. What I did was check the yellow wire for short or open wires. This way you can at least rule out the yellow wire, that way knowing it wasn't your wiring that's causing the problem. Mine checked ok, so it has to be the meter or sensor. How you describe your testing I'd lean towards the sensor, but without seeing a schematic of the meter, I wouldn't totally rule it out either. Hopefully Bill and Garett are on top of it as much as they can be. They still are relying on what has been manufactured for them by someone else, so they can only have so much control over the products. I'm willing to bet there will be some talks between them and the manufacturer once this is squared away.
Marty