rear diff ?
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From: Long Island USA
Rich, the only reason I say the diff has to come out to get a correct pinion preload is unless you gut it, you have to take into account the preload on the diff carrier bearings, divide by the gear ratio, and add that to the pinion preload.
Either way, setting a Sterling 10.5 or a Ford 8.8 pinion preload isn't something a backyard mechanic can usually handle.
And don't get me started on reusing crush collars
Either way, setting a Sterling 10.5 or a Ford 8.8 pinion preload isn't something a backyard mechanic can usually handle.
And don't get me started on reusing crush collars
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Originally Posted by krewat
Uh, I might not be an "expert" but I know when setting up pinion preload is beyond a certain level of backyard mechanic.
If it's a Sterling 10.5", setting the pinion preload has to be done with the diff carrier out, a new crush sleeve, and a new nut (or locktite the old one if you're cheap).
If it's a Dana 60/80/44, the preload is set with shims, so removing the yoke, replacing the seal, and re-torquing the nut to specs is doable.
But if it's the Ford/Sterling unit, removing the yoke and just replacing the seal and re-torquing the nut WILL give problems. You can't just take off the yoke and replace the seal. You have to gut the entire thing and setup the pinion preload CORRECTLY.
Side note: Even if the seal is "weeping", CHECK THE BREATHER.
art k.
ps: I've rebuilt quite a few rear-ends (and front-ends) and never had one fail. Because I did it the RIGHT WAY.
If it's a Sterling 10.5", setting the pinion preload has to be done with the diff carrier out, a new crush sleeve, and a new nut (or locktite the old one if you're cheap).
If it's a Dana 60/80/44, the preload is set with shims, so removing the yoke, replacing the seal, and re-torquing the nut to specs is doable.
But if it's the Ford/Sterling unit, removing the yoke and just replacing the seal and re-torquing the nut WILL give problems. You can't just take off the yoke and replace the seal. You have to gut the entire thing and setup the pinion preload CORRECTLY.
Side note: Even if the seal is "weeping", CHECK THE BREATHER.
art k.
ps: I've rebuilt quite a few rear-ends (and front-ends) and never had one fail. Because I did it the RIGHT WAY.
Cap, Seals can leak/weep due to oxidation,dirt,and normal wear......other 10%
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: north west new jersey
yes on that factor. but more then not it's due to bearing failer on the pinion shaft. or very high miles.
hay rich
see what happens when you retire from the dealer shop life ? you become a old fart like me.plus comeing up on the big 60 is not helping either .
descr
ask away man! many of us in here are or were full time ASE master techs. both gas and diesel. some even factory field techs and sure don't mind passing along what we know. i for one hope, my 42 years inside can help some one like you out.
hay rich
see what happens when you retire from the dealer shop life ? you become a old fart like me.plus comeing up on the big 60 is not helping either .
descr
ask away man! many of us in here are or were full time ASE master techs. both gas and diesel. some even factory field techs and sure don't mind passing along what we know. i for one hope, my 42 years inside can help some one like you out.
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