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Help! I've Done It Again

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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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Help! I've Done It Again

I was trying to remove the heater hose connector from the water pump and sheared it off flush with the housing. How do I go about removing the piece that remains in the threads without destroying the threads. It of course is nicely rusted in place. Will a butane torch get the metal hot enough to help loosen it or is it just not hot enough. I am thinking of using an easy out after letting some mouse milk soak in for a couple of days. Any ideas are much appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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Unless it was pretty new WP (doesn't sound like it) I'd just replace it. I've never had much luck with a bottle-torch.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 11:35 PM
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If you can, try to get a hacksaw blade inside the piece. Working carefully cut three or four grooves at 90 degrees to threads. Cut as deep as you can without hurting the threads in the water pump to much. Take a sharp awl and pick out a portion between your cuts. Once you have a section out, try tapping the remaining piece out with a punch, unscrewing it as you go. Take your time and it will come out.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 11:42 PM
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Don't plumbers use some sort of internal easy-out when they have to take out a broken pipe end or nipple from a fixture or female fitting?

seawulff, you ever get that wing window problem solved?
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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Hmmn, I know it's best to save a buck here and there...but

A- iF the Fitting is so rusted in that you need an alternative method to remove it, it'd probably be a good time to get a new Water Pump/

B- Unless you have it, you'd need an easyout for 1/2 or 3/4 NPT...not cheap, and would rival the cost of a new waterpump.

But heck, I've twisted radiator fins together to keep it going down the road, so whatever your budget will allow.

BTW-It's real tough to heat a cast iron part and get results with a bottled torch.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 12:57 AM
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If you can get it out easy good but to spend money for an easy-out it might be easier to just replace it with a rebuilt unit. I have used the hacksaw blade to cut them then colapse them with a small chisel then ran a NPT tap to cleanup the threads. Easy if you have all the tools on hand.

Rod 51F1
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 01:01 AM
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If seawulff knows a plumber with and easy-out, may it's worth a try.

Otherwise----new pump is the way to go overall.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 06:22 AM
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Can you weld a nut onto the remaining piece of the connector ?

Alternatively carefully drill out as large as you can without damaging the threads then use a hammer and punch to collapse the remaining metal inwards.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 11:57 AM
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Thanks for the advise. What is a NPT? I don't have that size easy-out and I haven't priced one. How do you go about taking the water pump off. Do you have to remove the fan and how big a job is that? Thanks again.

PS- I never was able to figure out why I have the gap in the window and when I put the other side in it has the same problem. All the pieces are new except the glass so maybe that is the problem.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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seawulff, what engine do you have?

NPT stands for National Pipe Thread; basically a plumbers thing.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2006 | 02:26 PM
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The engine is a 1957 312 which is in a 1956 F100. I was trying to put a single exhaust system on with a cross-over pipe but the hose for the heater was touching the cross-over pipe so I wanted to reposition it to the side mount which was just plugged. I got the plug out but when I tried to get the "elbow" connector for the hose off from the water pump it just sheared off. I guess I forgot that it was a hollow tube when I put the torque on it to try and loosen it. It is sheared off flush so I think my only options are to cut it with a hack saw blade and try not to ruin the threads or use an easy out. I may try and take the pump off and see how easy that is before deciding about replacing it.
 
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