Injector buzz test...
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Newport News
Injector buzz test...
I need to have an injector buzz test performed because I'm getting P1316 - IDM codes detected and I need to pull them. My CEL comes on and the truck loses a ton of power and runs like crap. The only code reader I have is a Diablo Predator, and I'm fairly sure it won't do this. Is the stealership the only option or does someone know another way to do a buzz test?
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by basstardo
I need to have an injector buzz test performed because I'm getting P1316 - IDM codes detected and I need to pull them. My CEL comes on and the truck loses a ton of power and runs like crap. The only code reader I have is a Diablo Predator, and I'm fairly sure it won't do this. Is the stealership the only option or does someone know another way to do a buzz test?
The harness is carrying 115V @ 8amps to actuate those injector solenoids.
Nut
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Newport News
That's what I'm going to check out now while it's still daylight. I'm checking all of the visible wires tonight to see what kind of shape they're in. I know I have a chafed glow plug wire under the passenger side valve cover, so I'm going to have to replace that at the same time I guess. I just don't want to pull the valve covers unless I have to. Lots of crap to get out of the way.
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Any automotive shop with a generic scan tool, such as a Snap-On scanner, should be albe to preform a buzz test. You shouldn't have to go to the dealer. The one case of a faulty IDM that I have ran into showed one bank of injectors all dead. The truck didn't run all that bad for only firing on 4 cylinders but a huge lack of power. I verified the failure by swapping in a different IDM. I know that doesn't help you very much unless you have a friend willing to swap parts with you.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Newport News
Was it your IDM or faulty wiring? I didn't get a chance to look last night because of honey-do stuff, but hopefully I can take a peak during lunch today. I'm hoping it's just a chafe in the wiring somewhere, or that it's a loose connection and I can just use the tabs from International to hold the clips down better. It doesn't seem like a whole bank is dead, but I can definitely tell it's losing more than one cylinder. There's no smoke when it happens, but I lose a ton of power and can barely accelerate without downshifting and brining the engine RPM's over 2000.
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Laughing Gas
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From: Newport News
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From: Houston, Texas
If you really need an NGS diagnostic done, but you don't want to pay the dealership $100+ just go to a local Diesel performance or repair shop. I called around to three dealerships and they wanted $250, $98, $86 and a few days just to do one. I called DI Performance on 1960 and they only wanted $35 and it was the same tool the dealership uses! Not only that, but they took time out and did the diagnostic right there in front of me. (instead of having me wait a few days) As a result, they're replacing my injectors with new ones at half of what Ford wanted. So try a local diesel mech and/or a diesel performance shop and you should come out better.
Last edited by Toreador_Diesel; Jun 30, 2006 at 10:39 AM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
Check the main IDM harness that comes out of the drivers side wheelwell where it touches the valve cover. The insulation can rub off and short out there. If that looks ok, then you're probably looking at replacing the under valve cover harnesses, or adding the little clips to keep the harness plugged in. This is a known problem. I and many others have had the same issue.
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A faulty IDM is pretty uncommon. A very common problem with the later 7.3L is the under valve cover harness plugin. The clip holding the plugin together becomes weak over time and the connect starts to pull apart. First you will loose power to a glowplug and eventually injectors go dead. There is an updated under valve cover harness from International that fixes this problem. You can verify this with an ohm meter without having to remove the valve cover. Unplug the connector at the valve cover gasket (external) there will be 9 pins in the valve cover harness. The two outer pins on each side are the glowplugs. Check them by connecting the ohm meter to the battery ground and test each pin for around 0.9ohms to 2.0ohms. Next check the injector solenoids by connecting to the center pin and one of the two on either side of the center pin. Each one of the pins on either side of the center one represent an injector. You should read around 3ohms. If you find two dead glowplugs and one or two injectors you may have an under valve cover harness problem. (PS if any pins are black or burnt you have a wiring problem in the system?