Drilling / cutting roof
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Cochranville, PA
Drilling / cutting roof
Hello:
I will be installing a NOS factory set of cab lights and cargo light to my 1985 F-350. In looking at a donor truck, I was able to detemine the measurements for the cab lights and cargo light.
The holes for the roof cab lights are 1.5" wide. My question is this: Can I use a hole saw for metal to cut the holes? I was looking at some hole saws the oterh day and saw ones for wood, metal and then wood/metal. I did not see any ones that were specifically for metal. The one that said for wood and metal did not have very fine teeth.
Last question. The rear cargo light was easy to get the pattern lines up and centered. I am going to try cutting the hole out (trapezoid-shaped) w/ my dremel w/ a cut-off wheel. Do you think I can use the dremel through the sheet metal? Thanks
Coneynew
I will be installing a NOS factory set of cab lights and cargo light to my 1985 F-350. In looking at a donor truck, I was able to detemine the measurements for the cab lights and cargo light.
The holes for the roof cab lights are 1.5" wide. My question is this: Can I use a hole saw for metal to cut the holes? I was looking at some hole saws the oterh day and saw ones for wood, metal and then wood/metal. I did not see any ones that were specifically for metal. The one that said for wood and metal did not have very fine teeth.
Last question. The rear cargo light was easy to get the pattern lines up and centered. I am going to try cutting the hole out (trapezoid-shaped) w/ my dremel w/ a cut-off wheel. Do you think I can use the dremel through the sheet metal? Thanks
Coneynew
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If you shop around you can probably find some hole saws specifically for metal. If not, the wood/metal combinations will probably work okay. I have cut holes for some door speakers with a dremel so it should work pretty well if you take your time with it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
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From: New Jersey
Ace Hardware, Home Depot, and Lowes carry bi-metal hole saws, those are the ones you want. The slower you bore with them, the longer they will last between sharpening.
You can use a dremel to enlarge the rear hole but it's going to take a long time, as the cutting tools honestly, well, suck for metal. Ideally, you want a carbide cutting tool in an air drill/grinder or something along those lines. In liu of that, you could buy a carbide cutter and stick it in your corded drill, and run at full speed. I've ported heads that way and it's just much slower.
You can use a dremel to enlarge the rear hole but it's going to take a long time, as the cutting tools honestly, well, suck for metal. Ideally, you want a carbide cutting tool in an air drill/grinder or something along those lines. In liu of that, you could buy a carbide cutter and stick it in your corded drill, and run at full speed. I've ported heads that way and it's just much slower.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
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cutting a roof....
Use the hole saw if you want to warp your roof beyond words....the saw will heat up the steel & with vibrations & stress you will chase the waves with plastic.
If you have to install the lights...USE A PLASMA TORCH & WET SPONGE TO CONTROL ADJACENT HEAT. the steel adjacent to torched holes will be cool...this is the best way to cut a roof with no damage to adjacent areas.
Screws / threads??? consider using thread / rivet inserts to screw into.
good luck with the lights.
If you have to install the lights...USE A PLASMA TORCH & WET SPONGE TO CONTROL ADJACENT HEAT. the steel adjacent to torched holes will be cool...this is the best way to cut a roof with no damage to adjacent areas.
Screws / threads??? consider using thread / rivet inserts to screw into.
good luck with the lights.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Oregon
Put masking tape over the areas you will drill, so you can use a fine line pencil to measure and mark, (crooked is forever). Once all the X's are there, (measure twice), I use a really sharp, narrow center punch and tap a mark through the tape. Then pull the tape back and punch a better mark for the drill bit. This is one of those projects where you want everything to be slow and deliberate....
You can also wet sponge a bi-metal hole saw and go slow, with breaks, to keep the heat down. The bigger the hole, the slower you go. The teeth are pretty aggressive on those, but if you pre-drill a pilot hole that's a little smaller than the bit in the hole saw and keep the hole saw straight with the work, it helps.
An air powered sheet metal saw is handy for cutting out the angles. I've seen them on sale at harbor freight fairly cheap. They have a very short, very fast stroke and don't heat the metal.
You can also wet sponge a bi-metal hole saw and go slow, with breaks, to keep the heat down. The bigger the hole, the slower you go. The teeth are pretty aggressive on those, but if you pre-drill a pilot hole that's a little smaller than the bit in the hole saw and keep the hole saw straight with the work, it helps.
An air powered sheet metal saw is handy for cutting out the angles. I've seen them on sale at harbor freight fairly cheap. They have a very short, very fast stroke and don't heat the metal.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Cochranville, PA
Just a f/u:
I actually just finished the install this weekend and everything went smoothly. Used a high speed drill and metal hole saw. No problems whatsever. No damage. Measured over 8 Ford trucks at the salvage yard and all had the same measurements. Fishing the factory harness through took a little patience, but it paid off. Used the factory plug (it is there behing the friver's side kick panel) and now they work like there from the factory. They turn on w/ the parking and driving lights. Next I'll be adding the rear cargo light.
I actually just finished the install this weekend and everything went smoothly. Used a high speed drill and metal hole saw. No problems whatsever. No damage. Measured over 8 Ford trucks at the salvage yard and all had the same measurements. Fishing the factory harness through took a little patience, but it paid off. Used the factory plug (it is there behing the friver's side kick panel) and now they work like there from the factory. They turn on w/ the parking and driving lights. Next I'll be adding the rear cargo light.
Senior User
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I was going to say why not just make a hole big enough to get the wires through but I see you already cut the holes.
For the back cargo light you might want to leave 2 tabs there to drill mounting holes.
ZZ
For the back cargo light you might want to leave 2 tabs there to drill mounting holes.
ZZ
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Senior User
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From: Cochranville, PA
I'll will be using the rubber gasket and trace the insdie of it, then mark the (2) mounting holes from the gasket as well. I have just been taking my time since once cut, its cut. Cab lights turned out nice. I will be doing the factory power windoes and locks next w/ the cargo light. Take care.
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