Just replaced the shoes and drums on my 67 F100 Camper Special. I had a hell of a time getting the drums off the hubs... there's another thread all about that. Anyways I'm 99% certain I've got the new drums seated fully on the hubs and I'm having trouble adjusting the brakes on one side. They drag no matter what I do. I have the star adjuster wheel turned down all the way, and I get drag irregularly (i.e. only in 2 parts of a full revolution I think), but it's enough to make it hard to move by hand. I read in Chilton's that my shoes are probably off-center, and that I need to adjust the anchor pin by loosening the nut on the back side of the backing plate slightly and tapping it around with a hammer to center it. I checked back there and there's no nut. I have this huge rivet-looking thing on the back where the nut should be. It's about 1" in diameter and flush with the plate. So I can't adjust the centering. I'm thinking that I will just run the truck and the brakes will wear to a point where the problem works itself out. Any suggestions?

Also, should my truck have self-adjusters on the front? There's not...

Greg
67 F100 CS 390 cruise-o

 

myself would adjust them until wheel cannot turn then back off until there is a slight drag, see if that helps
GWB

 

hmm.. I'll give that a try..

Greg

 

Check your in box

 

are your drums new or used , the drum itself may be out of round if its only draging in a certain spot, you you have a dial indictor ?

 

check my what-box??

Greg

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 08-Mar-01 AT 02:47 AM (EST)[/font][p]I adjusted them all the way out, as you said, and it seems to have worked. Next problem: When I road-tested the truck the brake warning light came on. Chilton's says that it's the pressure differential valve being off-center that causes that light to come on, and after assuring myself that I hadn't blown a slave cylinder (no fluid leaks apparent), I tried to follow Chilton's instructions to get rid of the extra pressure. I assume the front circuit is higher, because it had enough fluid in it to move the brakes further than they can now move with new pads and drums, so I assume I need to loosen the inlet tube nut on the diff valve and apply the brakes slowly until the light goes out, exactly as Chilton's says. The problem is that the fitting nut is rusted solid, and I stripped it quite easily trying to loosen it. ARGH! Everything I do on this truck turns out to be a @$%$ing nightmare!

Greg

 

Check the inbox at the top where you log in.

 

can't ... get... the darn line fittings off. They're so stripped. I guess I'm going to have to replace the hard lines from the master cylinder to the diff valve. Gotta go buy a double flaring tool.

Greg

 

I decided to bleed all the wheel cylinders to see if that would get the pressure to go down at all and center the diff valve. On the rear right wheel, the light went off immediately. I don't have to cut all my brake lines and bend up new ones. Thank God!

Another question: My drums had a long coil spring wrapped around the outer edge. What is this for?


Greg