how do I get obd1 codes?
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Rather Be Floatin
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Marble Falls, Tx.
how do I get obd1 codes?
I have a 92 explorer, 4.0L. It will die for about 1 second almost like a dead miss then continue on down the road. The service engine soon light will come on shortely afterward stay on for about 5 secs then go off. It will not come back on untill this problem is repeated. In a 10 mile trip it will do this maybe 10 times. Autozone will not pull the codes since they say it is an obd1 and they only do obd2 (96 & up). does anybody know how to check the codes. I have read before about jumping wires on the eec connector and counting the blinks but I have done several searches and cannot find it. Can anyone help.
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Rather Be Floatin
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Marble Falls, Tx.
87xlt, The 92 Explorer I was told has a obd1 is that the same as the EEC-IV. I used a mismash of instructions and hooked up the wires like it showed on the Tech info on the ranger Forum (I frequent it too for my 94, 2.3L, 5 spd, ranger) and the BAT Auto Technical website @troublecodes.net/ford and got a code 111, 57, 57.
Checking the codes looks like 111-System Checks ok, then 57-Neutral Position Switch (NPS) circuit fault, 89-90 All, then 57 again. but what does the 89-90 All mean? 89 and all 90 models? Does that sound like what migh be causing the dead miss I am getting? I have the 5spd manual trannie and it has 2 switches with 2 wires to each switch one on the drivers side top and one on the passenger side top any idea which one is the neutral switch or is it neither one? Also all I have to do to start my truck is depress the clutch pedal and it will start in any gear as long as the cluch is depressed. Any ideas?
Checking the codes looks like 111-System Checks ok, then 57-Neutral Position Switch (NPS) circuit fault, 89-90 All, then 57 again. but what does the 89-90 All mean? 89 and all 90 models? Does that sound like what migh be causing the dead miss I am getting? I have the 5spd manual trannie and it has 2 switches with 2 wires to each switch one on the drivers side top and one on the passenger side top any idea which one is the neutral switch or is it neither one? Also all I have to do to start my truck is depress the clutch pedal and it will start in any gear as long as the cluch is depressed. Any ideas?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: River Valley AR
I had to get some codes out of a bowtie car that was obd1. I ended up going to my local O'reillys and they had a scan tool that I use to retrieve the codes. Very easy and very straight forward, but their scanner could not reset the codes, had to do the battery disconnect thing. The scanner gave code numbers and descriptions of the codes. It was a big help.
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Rather Be Floatin
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Marble Falls, Tx.
The local O'reilly's here wont do squat. I have checked with three of them in my area and they refer me to Autozone!!! I dont like getting parts from Autozone unless they are a good brand at a good price, I had a bad experience with chinese parts and repeated failures from Autozone, but you can get that anywhere. I just dont see it quite as much at O'reilley's. Thanks.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Well somethings not right here, I think 91 & newer will output 3 digit codes, so your 57 is probably bogus & the 111 "system pass" is probably correct
Does batauto.com tell you if yours is a 2 or 3 digit system?
Try pulling the codes again & see what you get.
Yeah, OBD-1 & EEC-IV are the same.
BTW, have you tried doing a wiggle test? Start it up & wggle wires under the hood to see if it will stall?
Does batauto.com tell you if yours is a 2 or 3 digit system?
Try pulling the codes again & see what you get.
Yeah, OBD-1 & EEC-IV are the same.
BTW, have you tried doing a wiggle test? Start it up & wggle wires under the hood to see if it will stall?
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Rather Be Floatin
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Marble Falls, Tx.
batauto does not say if its 2 or 3 digit codes. The wiggle test was my first test a couple of days ago, no detectable problems. I let it sit and idle this morning for 20 mins no miss no problem. It mainly acts up during stop an go and light city traffic when I have to do alot of shifting.
Just disconnected battery to clear codes reconnected and went to the highway drove approx 15 miles at 55-70mph no problems exited highway pulled into neighborhood and it did its little miss thing twice, stupid light came on again Tried pulling codes again it is definately 111, 57 then a pause then 57 again. arrgggghhhhh
Just disconnected battery to clear codes reconnected and went to the highway drove approx 15 miles at 55-70mph no problems exited highway pulled into neighborhood and it did its little miss thing twice, stupid light came on again Tried pulling codes again it is definately 111, 57 then a pause then 57 again. arrgggghhhhh
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Yeah THOSE codes will make you crazy.
I looked in the manual for my Actron scanner & all it sez is "Certain 1991 & newer use 3 digit codes." No help there.
How about this, is it cutting out long enough for you to see if the idiot lights are coming on?? If they're not i'd suspect a flaky ignition switch.
I looked in the manual for my Actron scanner & all it sez is "Certain 1991 & newer use 3 digit codes." No help there.
How about this, is it cutting out long enough for you to see if the idiot lights are coming on?? If they're not i'd suspect a flaky ignition switch.
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Rather Be Floatin
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Marble Falls, Tx.
It does not cut out that long, it does cut out long enough to cause it to buck like crazy though!! I guess i am going to drive it for a couple of days and see if it gets bad enough to actually find the problem, that is if I can get past all the crazy looks people give me when it starts bucking. I am open to any other suggestions. I am to the point where that ignition switch might be worth giving a try.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
'92 4.0 should output 3 digit codes, but '91 4.0's output 2 digit codes. It's possible (I suppose) that one could get a "transition" where they had a '91 computer lying around at the assembly pant and used it. In any case, you shouldn't be getting both 3 digit and 2 digit codes from the same computer. I almost suspect we are missing a "1" in front of the "57" and that should be a 157. Since it comes at the end of the test, it would be a CM code rather than a KOEO code (KOEO=111 pass). Have you tried running the KOER test, yet? That's usually the next step when you get a pass code from the KOEO test.
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Rather Be Floatin
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Marble Falls, Tx.
mrshorty, do you know how to do the KOER test? Is it the same as the KOEO test same location for jumpers etc, just start the motor as opposed to turnig the key to the on position?
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Rather Be Floatin
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From: Marble Falls, Tx.
Well I did the KOEO test using the Instructions from the ranger tech info and counted the flashes of the service engine light versus using my analog meter and got 111, 157, 157. 157 is MAF sensor low voltage. I removed my maf sensor and the screen was black with an oil type residue and it had a couple small bugs on the screen also (dont know how they got past the filter?). I cleaned the MAF sensor with some gunk carb cleaner and also cleaned out the throttle body since I had a little gunk left in the can. I have it all back together but its too late to take it for a drive so I will find out how it runs tomorrow morning on my way to work and post the results. I have not put a ignition switch in because the local O'Reileys do not stock the part and it will take them 24 hrs to get one hopefully after the MAF clean it wont need it!
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Rather Be Floatin
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Marble Falls, Tx.
I would like to thank everyone especially mrshorty and 87xlt fotr their help in directing me on where to find instructions on retreiving codes and suggestions as to what the problem may have been. I have driven back and forth to work 3 times (approx 10 miles each way) and my bucking problem and service engine light are now fixed. I have heard if you over oil a K&N air filter and get some oil residue on the maf it can cause problems. I dont have a K&N and I dont know where the oily residue came from but I can now confirm that a dirty maf sensor can cause all types of problems but never knew how little dirty it can be to cause those problems. Thanks again. RedBoat
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Thanks RedBoat, and i'm VERY glad to hear that you got it figured out & running like it should again. Congrats on the fix.
I asked a mechanic how it could be that only clean air from the air filter passing thru a MAF & throttle body can gunk things up?
He told me that what happens is when you shut off a hot engine some intake valves will stay open & fumes from the hot oil in the crankcase come up through those open valves & gunk things up over time.
Ditto on your kudos to mrshorty, I know i've learned a LOT from his answers to many posts on this forum.
I asked a mechanic how it could be that only clean air from the air filter passing thru a MAF & throttle body can gunk things up?
He told me that what happens is when you shut off a hot engine some intake valves will stay open & fumes from the hot oil in the crankcase come up through those open valves & gunk things up over time.
Ditto on your kudos to mrshorty, I know i've learned a LOT from his answers to many posts on this forum.