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radiator blowout overtemp is approx 265d F with 50% glycol mix and 15 psi cap....aka boil over....
had my radiator spout once on summer long hill pull w trailer and original factory intank and factory aux ATF cooler...didn't have inline tranny temp gauge then.....added plate/fin and bypassed intank cooler...end of problem
we know that Aero radiator is marginal at best except in maybe Alaska
Personally, I would retain the factory coolers and install any additional cooling after them.
One hears of leaky factory coolers but I think they are generally quite reliable. I will get my infra red thermometer out tomorrow and get the temp of the cold and hot side of the radiator. I have never done this and am curious myself. I will do this at the hottest time of day with full a/c...
I installed my B&M cooler in place of the stock ATF cooler today. I rerouted the power steering lines to replace the stock PS cooler with the stock ATF cooler. I had to remove the stock PS cooler to make room for the new B&M cooler. I found out that the PS uses Type F ATF. I wonder if I can use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in its place? If not, I'll have to keep yet another fluid in my garage.
I'll find out if I assembled everything correctly tomorrow.
Last edited by xlt4wd90; Jun 26, 2006 at 01:32 AM.
ok,here's what happened. I removed the bumper and the grille. The plan was to install the second cooler right behind the grille. I loosened the clamp of the upper hose that goes into the first external cooler, pulled on the hose and slam - the metal part of the cooler which is inside the hose just broke off from the cooler
So: I replaced the now broken cooler with the one I had, attached all lines, reinstalled grille and bumper and I'm no better off than before. I should have enjoyed a cold beer in my garden and read the Sunday paper instead of wasting 2 hours for nothing. I told my son who helped me that should something else break off during installation I'd junk the damn thing and buy something new.
Pablo: I'll look for the Astra fan now but I won't touch the tranny cooler ever again.
tom,
betcha that old cooler line would have broken off shortly while driving from road vibration....sounds weakened already....you saved yourself an expensive tranny repair
best thing on old rubber/neoprene hoses that have seized to fitting is to split with knife and peel off...a soaking with penetrating oil helps also
I installed a 2 row radiator for a 94 Explorer on my Areo, run a 180 degree thermistat and have a heavy duty clutch fan and my water gage needle runs between the bottom of N and bottom of O. One row coolers are undersized for any vehical with AC and an Auto tranny. Saying all that my 88 Jetta with Automatic had no cooler what so ever and no problems.
a 180d F thermostat drives the ECU computer crazy in Aero, lowers fuel mileage and is hard on engine life...poor fuel atomization in plenum throats especially in bank injected older 3L and 4L....also increases emissions due to poor cat. converter light off and performance....
totally agree with you that the tiny Aero radiator, especially the 1 row 3L, is far undersized for a 4,000 lb vehicle that has poor aerodynamics with the garbage truck air sucker rear end
can you post pictures of install of 2 row radiator and step by step directions....any drilling or bracket fabing required?
Actually, the Aerostar has excellent Aerodynamics. They are capable of getting up to 25 mpg highway, which both Windstars and Caravans are very hard pressed to do. The Aerodynamic weakness is the mirrors. The van is not boxy, but has sharp enough edges that is reduces is wake, which in turn reduces drag, sometimes smoother contours create a greater wake, and this is where economy is lost.
I have been working to increase the cooling capacity for a while now. 92 AWD New Rad, Fan Clutch, New water pump, 185 thermostat, tune up, etc.
I towed a 2500lb tent trailer and this last weekend was only able to maintain my speed 60-65 up 5% grades in 95-100 degree outside temperatures if I turned off the AC. If not the engine temp would slowly rise to the top part of M, with the AC off temp would drop to the middle of R until I reached the top of the grade then drop to just above O. I would like to keep the AC running the entire time. I know that is asking a lot of the Van but I want it all.
I wasn't sure how to improve the cooling capacity beyond buying all new cooling system componets but now the the larger 94 EXPOLER radiator is on my to do list. Thanks for that information. The plate cooler for the tranny is next.
I like run the legal limit up the passes beacuse it feels a lot safer than having everyone and their grandma pass you 20+ mph faster on the left. I really like the van but it has a hard time with heat and stopping.
Thanks
Jason
If you have the AWD Aerostar with 4.0L engine, the stock radiator is the same size as that on the Explorer. Switching to the Explorer's radiator won't help you. However, if you have a 3.0L, then it would help to switch.
never tow in OD, 3rd gear only max....Ford does not rate most of their auto trannys for OD towing even on the flats....
shift into OD for mild downhill grades and take advantage of the coast clutch built into the A4LD
let your foot off the gas and there is no fuel going to the injectors
put in full synthetic ATF... Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple to withstand towing heat and load
put on the largest plate and fin tranny cooler that will fit in front of radiator up high with most of cooler exposed to grille air flow and not behind front bumper.....1 1/2 inch thich unit ATF Cooler click
bypass the intake radiator cooler and put in an inline filter Inline Filter click
add a tranny fluid temp gauge and keep ATF temp below 200d F. Temp Gauge click
For me ('93 3.0L) it was a straight swap with no additional mounting. The radiator hoses had to be shortened a little because of the additional thickness in the radiator, but that's easy enough.
However, I only did that because I needed a new radiator anyway. If you don't need one, and you are not towing, why spend money?