Frame Swap
Frame Swap
So I need a frame; mine is cracked real bad.
I have a 1995 F150 Longbed with the 4.9L I6 engine.
Can anyone tell me what vehicles have the same frame?
All 1980-1996 F150s (Longbed)?
Anything else? I definately want to keep my I6 engine so I need the same mounting points.
Thanks!
I have a 1995 F150 Longbed with the 4.9L I6 engine.
Can anyone tell me what vehicles have the same frame?
All 1980-1996 F150s (Longbed)?
Anything else? I definately want to keep my I6 engine so I need the same mounting points.
Thanks!
Someone made the statement that from 1980 till 1996 for f-150 and bronco frames remained the same, to 97/8 for the f-250 and f-350. Sounds like you need a heavier truck frame.
Funny though I happen to know where a 1993 long bed f-150 is at, at the moment. I wouldnt touch the truck because it looked to be used very hard for pulling on the old 302 and AOD.
Funny though I happen to know where a 1993 long bed f-150 is at, at the moment. I wouldnt touch the truck because it looked to be used very hard for pulling on the old 302 and AOD.
Last edited by alxsnmr; Jun 21, 2006 at 03:35 PM.
Wow, that's nasty.
Any longbed F-150 to F-350 frame will swap in. The engine doesn't matter, as the mounts go with it. Really, the only thing to worry about is the wheelbase, which you already know about.
Also, a 1998 F-250 frame will NOT swap. 1980 to 1997 only.
Any longbed F-150 to F-350 frame will swap in. The engine doesn't matter, as the mounts go with it. Really, the only thing to worry about is the wheelbase, which you already know about.
Also, a 1998 F-250 frame will NOT swap. 1980 to 1997 only.
Trending Topics
They're thicker, but the body mounts are the same. Some drilling might have to be done, but it's not a big fabrication project.
Some trucks have the crumple zone up front, but they'll still swap over.
Some trucks have the crumple zone up front, but they'll still swap over.
Swapping the frame is a lot bigger project than it sounds. Its not just a body, you have fuel and brake lines, electrical, most of the interior will need to be removed, etc. Though that frame looks really bad, it is still repairable. If you are handy with a grinder and welder, you could have it repaired for $12 in mild steel plate and three hours of work. If not, any fab. shop or welder can make the repair much cheaper (even with Union labor prices)and easier than a frame swap. When I worked at a body shop in college, I was contracted to do sub work for UPS which included welding cracked frames, its a lot more common than you might think. If breaking the frame is still a concern, you could box the frame and add gussets for suspension mounts and so forth. If you are still braking frames after that, you might want consider taking some driving classes... just kidding.
I've done a lot of reading about the difficulties of frame repair with these heat treated frames. A lot of folks say welding the frame just creates weak spots next to the weld that ends up cracking anyway and just compounding the problem. That being said; I just spent some time under the truck and you're right; replacing the frame looks like a major proposition!!
AYE AYE AYE
AYE AYE AYE
The difficulty is that many people want the simply weld the the crack and call it a day. Unfortunately its not that simple, the crack does need to be filled in, but a plate needs to be welded over the crack extending over both sides(usually about 2-6 inches each side). There are other methods to repair it, but that is most common. Anyway, its just an option to look into.
Um, the suspension brackets are different for the F250/350 as compared to the F150. THey are wider, and thicker, because the leaf springs are wider, and support more weight.
The F150 springs will fit in the rear of an F250/350 frame, however you will need bushings or a small pile of grade 8 washers for each side, unless you are into drilling out the rivets and moving your old ones (or new ones) over.
Welding it isn't a bit deal.... like Biglame suggests a plate on both sides will do the trick, then heat treat the area afterwards with an oxy torch.
Having done this many times to trucks of many brands I don't have anymore, what I've done is insert a slightly smaller piece of c-channel on the inside of the frame rail, weld it in all around, then drop one bead down the crack as you have in the picture.
Never had such a repair break, and the two trucks I had to do this to often had ridiculously sized tires and got tons of air (the truck, not the tires). I was into jumping at the time.
The F150 springs will fit in the rear of an F250/350 frame, however you will need bushings or a small pile of grade 8 washers for each side, unless you are into drilling out the rivets and moving your old ones (or new ones) over.
Welding it isn't a bit deal.... like Biglame suggests a plate on both sides will do the trick, then heat treat the area afterwards with an oxy torch.
Having done this many times to trucks of many brands I don't have anymore, what I've done is insert a slightly smaller piece of c-channel on the inside of the frame rail, weld it in all around, then drop one bead down the crack as you have in the picture.
Never had such a repair break, and the two trucks I had to do this to often had ridiculously sized tires and got tons of air (the truck, not the tires). I was into jumping at the time.
I laid under the truck for a while last night; a frame swap does not look worth-while...lots of work would be required. I emailed a collision center about my problem; they also recommended a frame swap but gave me a rough estimate of $5000.



From what I can tell; it goes completely through



