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I just got a hold of a 1968 for F100 and the gas guage did not work, the pervious owner told me that it needed a new fuel tank sender. I replaced it, as the old one didnt even have a floater line. However the gas guage still doesnt work.
Can someone tell me the exact wiring for the fule guage it appears that someone tried to play with it.
Is there anything wrong with running a line straight from the top of the Sender to the back or the guage cluster? Or do I need to splice in somehwere for power?
If I provide 12v power to the back side of the guage is pegs out at full, so I assume the guage is working.
I may be wrong but I don't think it's a good idea to put 12v directly to the guage. There is a voltage regulator attached to the back of the dash (search any of the big parts houses online catalogs for a picture)-it's called a dashboard voltage regulator I think. It reads the voltage coming out of the sender and moves the needle depending on the voltage from it. You can take the working part of the sender apart and see if the tang that scrapes the inside wall may be shot. Mine wouldn't read anything but 1/2 full, I took the sender apart and touched it up with steel wool and now it's a lot more accurate. Keep in mind, these systems are not all that accurate to begin with.
If yours is like mine your sending unit is behind the seat with one post connector and a spade ground. Can't go any other way unless your previous owner butchered it.
On the back of the dash you will find a small rectangular shaped box that unplugs from the dash from what looks like 9v battery type connectors. This is your voltage regulator and I'm told they fail sometimes. All of the electrical that connects to the dash comes from plug into the back of the dash. There is a laminated plastic back to the dash with copper embedded wires that sends electrical to the lights and the gauges. That voltage regulator apparently decides what gets how much.
Unless your previous owner has cut wires behind the dash or at the sender, you don't really need a diagram cause it can only go one way.
Of course the caveat is that mine is a 1970 F-100 so your performance may vary.
What I did 'cause I didn't trust any of it was buy a cheap fuel gauge and mount it below the dash and wired it direct to 12v and the sending unit. Then I didn't have to figure out what was wrong in the dash.
The test procedure was the same for the gas sending unit as for the oil in the '71 manual.
Be VERY careful if you are taking out the gas sending unit. IF the tank has gas in it and IF conditions are right and IF you get a tiny spark, well...you know. Disconnect the lead from the sending unit before you pull it out. Tape or cover the hole in the gas tank so no fumes are getting out. Do this outside, unless you have very good insurance.