Allright so, I'm just about to start cleaning, fixing and strengthening the frame if needed. Surprisingly yesterday I found that my 74 Highboy Frame was in better shape than I thought. It hardly lost any thickness to rust scaling. So originally I wanted to box my frame seeing that I'll be running quite a bit of HP and TQ say in 500-600 HP and about the same in TQ. But that was when I thought my frame was a lot thinner.
Here's what I'm thinking. All I wanna do now is get rid of a bit of frame twist, over the rear axle. I'll be running ladder bars to the axle. Instead of boxing the original C frame I was thinking a ladder bar design in the C intstead of full plate. I have a lot of 1" square tubing the design would look sort of like
this: l\/l\l/l\l/l\l/l\l/l\/l
I would keep it a fairly tight pattern, with 3/16" flat bar on top and bottom then welded to the frame, being cautious of heat ofcourse on the frame. I would also add a couple 2x3 or 2x4 crossmembers.
I like this idea for a couple reasons,
1st: I still have easy access to the inside of the frame for plumbing etc..
2nd: Maybe not as strong as plate boxing but still adds some rigidity combined to a good condition frame, extra crossmembers and tration bars.

Still would like your feedback. I know a lot of guys running stock frames with the same or more HP I'll be running, I figure this would just help. Besides I've got a lot of this square tubing to use.

Madmike33

 

Just a Bump

 

Highboy frames are plenty strong. I know guys running twice that power through stock F-100 frames in the sand and mud. Seams like a waste of time. If you're looking for traction, forget frame twist on a truck, try to kill unsprung weight. You're ladder tubing idea sounds interesting, but boxing is stronger. I'd say just box the frame for the ladder bar attaching points with some 10 guage and be done with it.

 

Yeah I figures the frame was able to take it, I too have been chatting with some guys using a Stock Highboy frame and running bigger numbers than I'll. They aren't complaining. I'm glad to get some feadback on this finally.
So you think I should just plate in over my traction bar ancor points? interesting, not to mention how much time i'll be saving.
Thanx for the great feedback.
I would hope others would post also though.

Madmike33

 

I guess I could still add a couple off crossmembers, even if I decide not to go with my original ladder bar type frame rail.

Madmike33

 

Speaking of frame twist I was in the junk yard the other day and saw a late 60's F-250 4x4. Looked like it was set up for some kind of pulling. The truck was bent at the front spring hanger on the rear axle. Sort of looked like this /\. I guess that guy wished he'd have boxed in the frame.

Buck

 

I truely think it 's of benefit to have a boxed frame, I guess though it also depends what sort of hell you put it through. Besides any straight line drag I don't think this truck is going to see much heavy work.

Madmike33