Has anyone here ever adjusted or replaced the automatic shut off on their turn signal switch? Mine works just often enough that I can't get myself in the habit of turning off the signal myself after a turn. Of course, the engine noise covers up the turn signal noise, and reflection off of the dash makes it hard to see if the signal is on or not.

I'm afraid I'm going to cause an accident either by my false signal or fussing with the thing while I'm driving.

Please help me from being that guy who drives all the way into town with his signal on!

 

There isn't any way I know of to adjust or replace just the part of the turn signal that turns the signal off. Usually one of those long plastic arms in the switch get weak or break off and you have to replace the whole switch. The only other thing that could possibly be wrong is your steering wheel could be on wrong and the pin to cancel the signals is in the wrong place. If you have a stock wheel it should be straight while you are going down the road straight. If you have an aftermarket wheel you may have to pull it off and rotate it slightly.

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="3" FACE="Veranda"]
A broken TS switch can actually be repaired. Many vendors sell an aftermarket kit that has a replacement cam (the part with the self-canceler arms). I recently learned that Ford also sold a service replacement part.

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Sounds like you need the cam, and it is readily available for less than $10.00. You would have to pull the wheel, to remove the broken cam.

John

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66F100s Rule
In the cool still quiet of night you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

How do you replace the cam ?
They are riveted in place , do ya drill them out ?
and what do ya replace the rivets with ?

just wondering coz I went to the wrecking yard and got the whole thing, Benford

 

I believe a phillips screw driver will do the trick if I remember correctly. After you get the wheel off, it's a piece of cake. :-)

John

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66F100s Rule
In the cool still quiet of night you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="3" FACE="Veranda"]
There is a "rivet-like" fastener on there, but me thinks you just pop the old "clip" off and a new one (provided in the kit) snaps back over this "rivet" looking thingy (those are all technical terms by the way).
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I replaced the cam in my 77 with one from a kit. I remember it went as follows:

1) Break the snap ring holding theexisting cam carefully, to preserve the groove in the post.

2) Bend the contact wires on the new cam to match the wires on the old cam: otherwise you will get erratic operation. (To save space in packing the wires on my kit were flat against the cam: didn't work. Fortunately the kit came with two snap rings so I could correct my mistake after a hour of fruitless trouble shooting. At least all the connections to my tail lights are clean now.)

I'm not sure of the order of the next two steps: I think it's mount cam first, splice second, but if that looks backwards when you're doin it, do the splices first.

I just realized that it's been a while since I've looked at this board: if you're long done, I hoped it worked out well.

3)Get a smallnut driver or equivalent, put the cam on the post, push it down and hold it, and then place the new snap ring over the cam and force it on the post with the nut driver. If the cam dosen't lift off the post without the snap ring in place the contacts are not bent enough to make reliable contact.

4) Splice the two wires going to the cam without making the wires too short too flex reliably, or too long to fit in the available space. I think I ended up soldering and shrink wrapping the splices to save room over crimp connector.

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="3" FACE="Veranda"]
I would note that the 67-72 trucks do not have the extra wires on the cam. I am not sure when in the 73-79 series that became the case, but I believe about 77??

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