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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #1  
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Hard startin SOB

Ok i just got done replacing a valve and the head gasket on my 78 F150 4x4 4spd. Before it would only take me about 20 seconds of cranking in cold weather with the choke on and pumping the gas...more sometimes but it would start without having to convince it with gas or ether.

Now it cranks and cranks and with fire once and stop spinning and then i turn the key off and back on and try again. Then i eventually have to get gas down the carb to start it.

It runs great and everything but just wont start. I only have one vaccum line hooked up because the others were broke off when I got it. Could it be that I didnt set the choke right and wont start that way? Also it barely stays idle with the choke on so that could be it. What are the 3 vaccum lines that i should have and what can I do to replace if needed.

And when I run to Menards to get stuff it starts right up when I leave but just after sitting for time it wont.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:49 AM
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Sure sounds like choke adjustment.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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It sounds like a weak battery. A dying battery will spin the engine over fine, but won't provide full voltage to the ignition box while cranking and the box won't make a spark below 11 volts. You should never have to crank it for 20 seconds.
 

Last edited by Kalashtar; Jun 15, 2006 at 10:13 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 10:38 AM
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Good point, but if the battery was that bad, it probably would'nt crank for 20 sec. Easy enough to put a volt meter across the battery while cranking to check it out. Also fairly easy to spot choke function with the air cleaner off.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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It shouldnt be a battery. The original battery I used would give it one shot then you would have to charge it. but in cold weather this one can keep up for quite a while. I dont know how old it is but I took it out of my girlfriends car when she blew the engine up and we sold it to the junk yard.

I will run it on a volt meter to see since that does make sense that it could cause but I figure the spinning would stop before the spark would.

Does anyone know about the vaccum lines? I know there is one that is supposed to run to the exhaust manifold but not sure how needed that is... I dont have anything plugged either
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 05:35 PM
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Wink

Try for a stuck FLOAT I once had a ford 300 6 shooter The float would stick
at the LOWEST position. Check for leaks in carb bowl. Also a Weak fuel pump
can cause hard starting. Check fuel filter as well. Good Luck!!!!
 

Last edited by 6.9supercab; Jun 15, 2006 at 05:37 PM. Reason: =======
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 05:47 PM
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Try the basics first. Good spark at each plug? Plenty of good fuel? Can she breathe? Little carb cleaner and a tooth brush can do wonders to the carb and the plugs.
Had an old motorhome that would not start easily. Put in a electric in-line fuel pump only to get fuel to the carb quicker. I would run the electric for a few seconds prior to cold starting to help the longevity of my starter.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 05:54 PM
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I know the carb isnt the cleanest...it has been on my to-do list but other stuff breaks before I get a chance to fix it and there is always time/money as a factor. I replaced the plugs we i got the truck 1500 miles ago along with the wires and fuel pump. I suppose since there was water getting in the oil i could have been burning some oil and fouling my plugs. I will take a look and probably take apart my carb and see whats up with that.


I have to drive 80 miles one way next weekend so I just want to save some on gas since it used to cost me $35 in gas/oil round trip.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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less than $20 for a yf-a 1bbl carb rebuild kit. Pretty straight forward to do, also. I suggest you first isolate the problem as spark or fuel.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 06:09 PM
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You know; 20 sec in cranking time seems like a bit much. Less than 10 sec with atleast 1 fire seems about right. My 390 is far from "fresh". It has a manual choke and sits for weeks at a time. Three pumps with a 3/4 choke and she will always at minimum fire on first try. Not bragging, but just saying ;you might have a to check a couple different contributing components. I can appreciate a limited budget, but you might find on may of these ol' vehicles, many easy fixes come cheap. If your truck starts that hard, you may need to verify correct timing, voltage, and stuff like that.
"Process of elimination" is always best no matter of how deep your pockets are. Double check your timing and valve settings, and ,make sure she is getting the basics, easily.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 12:12 AM
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Yeah i am slowly working through the process of elimination. I got the truck from my grandpa after it sat for 10 years because he blew out a bearing in the rear axle. So I had a crash course in the Ford 9". Followed by replacing the drive shaft...rare in central iowa apparently since its single cab short box 4x4 manual (shorter, higher angle). Then all kinds of other small stuff. I started college in the fall and there wasnt a convient way to get out and work on it during school...oh yeah and school sucked me dry of cash. But now I bought a house in the city I go to school so I have a garage that I can sit down and work on it.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 02:14 PM
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Some of the starting problems I had this winter involved the battery cables and the wire that runs down to the starter. I won't say that's your problem but it made a big difference for me.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 03:00 PM
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just thought I would throw this out, what about valves are they set right?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 10:09 PM
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Here is the thing actually...

I had to replace an exhaust valve because and if I didnt get it moved in a week they were going to tow it from the college parking lot because they were going to do construction so I didnt have time to get the valve ground so I set it in there and it sealed so it worked for moving it just 5 miles to my new house. The others were left un touched and it has ran fine until just today the damn thing started getting hot but that is something else.

My grandpa has a valve grinder that he is going to show me how to use as soon as my grandma is away from the farm...my grandparents got divorced after 40 years and he isnt allowed to come near it if she is there because she doesnt like him at all i guess.

but the valve i replaced had to of been shot for a while and my grandpa was talking about it when I first got the truck going so I dont think its valves. My guess is carb since the fuel seems to vaporize when it sits...I do run 89 octane which here in iowa is ethanol blend and that caused vapor lock reallly bad until I wrapped the fuel line in tin foil so that could be another reason.
 
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