Recently my 7.3L IDI has become hard to start after it sits for a while. Reading various posts in this forum it sounds like a leak somewhere, which I already knew by the smell. I have already replaced all the return lines and new o-rings on the caps, they're all good now. Finally yesterday found that my injector pump is seeping somewhere out the bottom. I've turned wrenches most of my life so feel pretty confident about my abilities. So, my question is should I just go ahead and get a new injector pump and replace it, or should I remove it and see if it is just a seal leaking. This is my main transportation and I don't want it down for a few days, currently it is still driveable. If the chances are that I need a new one I would rather have one waiting to install, but if there is a chance I can repair it I'd rather not put the money into it. Thanks!

 

Thats a tough call, bottom line an ip rebuild gasket kit is about 50 bucks and has about 100 pieces in it (to cover many different series of pumps in the same frame). If your lucky enough to get the pump apart without damaging anything, and find the proper seal in the kit (nothing is labled NO INSTRUCTIONS!) you may be okay, but if the pump has 300k on it as in your signiture I wouldn't fell bad having the piece of mine for just swaping it

 

If you tightenend all the lines and you still got a leak than go for a new replacement pump.

Give the cost of a new pump, it is not worth rebuilding these Injection Pumps.

 

Welcome to FTE GaryTOR. I agree with everything listed above. Adding to farmnfly, If you can remove the pump, find the leaky seal and replace it, all in the same day (or whenever the next time you need to drive it somewhere) you'll be good to go. If not, I'd buy a new pump.

 

GaryTOR,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

I would go for the new IP.
Saving a few dollars on the IP is not worth possibly blowing an engine.

You will be looking at the 400 dollar neighborhood for a reman IP.
But a run away engine that self destructs will be in the 4000 dollar neighborhood.

 

Okay, thanks for all the replies. and the welcome. I suppose I knew that it would be best to replace the pump, I just have to convince the wife! But, you all bring up good points and although this is an old truck with lots of miles, so far it has been pretty reliable with only an occasional problem. So, I will get a remanufactured pump and assume I can get it done in a day. Any advice of things to watch out for when replacing the pump?

 

Sorry. I'm not to good at the diesels...yet. All i have to say is watch out for some diesel fuel to squirt outta the line. Just my $0.02

 

When you change the IP, remove the fuel lines to the filter and all the injectors. Unbolting the bottom couple of lines on the IP is a pain, but doable.
DO NOT REMOVE THE IP DRIVE GEAR HOUSING.
That would make it very easy to change the IP, but if the gears come apart the IP will be out of time and it is a bear to get it back in time.
After you get the lines and wires off, remove the access plate on the front of the IP drive gear housing. Then remove the three bolts that hold the gear to the IP drive shaft. Now unbolt the three bolts that hold the IP to the drive gear housing.
The IP will slide out the back of the housing.

On a 4x4 I find a sturdy bench about bumper height that you can stand on makies it a lot easier to work on the engine.

Plan on spending several hours swapping the IP, but it can be done in less than one day. I think it took me about 3 hours the last time I did mine.

Also I took my truck through a car wash and used engine cleaner on it as well as spraying the engine down real good before I started the swap. That got rid of most of the dirt that you do not want in the fuel lines or injectors after you open the fuel system.

Assembly is the reverse of removal, last fuel lines off are the first back on.

If your engine is NA, you may be able to remove the IP with the injector fuel lines still in place. That would make the job much easier than it is with a turbo.

 

As Dave has stated, NA, you can remove and install with the Lines still attached to the pump.

I just had my IP rebuilt and installed new injectors. I was able to remove and reinstall the IP with the lines attached. I didn't even remove the line keepers from the sides, the lines lined right back up with the Injectors. removing and installing the lines on a clean bench makes it very easy. Your reman. IP should have a timing mark on the top of it to line up with the one on the housing. disreguard the mark that factory stamped in the side of the housing, that is only good for origonal factory IP. the shop that remanurfactures the pump should erase the side mark on the pump anyway.

I have not yet had the truck electronicly timed, but it is running GREAT and I now am getting 20+MPG.

3 hours as Dave stated should get it done with time to relax along the way, might even include the car wash , which is a need to do!

Flyboyd8

 

3 hours did not leave me any relax time on my turbo motor.
I even had a little help from my son to get it done in three hours.

 

Thanks for all the advice, that was just what I was looking for. I ordered the pump today and ordered new injectors along with it. I thought I might as well get it all done. Thanks again for all the help, I hope to be installing it on Saturday!