well i had the uppipe fixed yea its where it went into the turbo it was like a 1/4 inch gap.. haha but they fixed it and well i dont noticed any differnce... and the downpipe was leakin too so they fixed that.. but no differnce in power... JUST the nice turbo wistel now u only hear thru the exhaust haha... What are u talkin about ? Do you still have the return line from the number 1 injector to the fuel filter header?
all the return lines are hooked up i just did the once side all of them the passenger side looks new... now see in the valley on the intake its like wet with disesel its alwasy lookes damp?? like i said b4 use to gas motors..

 

The front injector passenger side is the #1 injector. Look for a return line from the fuel filter header any of the return lines on the engine.

Most of them were tied into the #1 injector return cap, but with a turbo sometimes it was Teed into the return line near the #1 cap. There is a check valve in the filter header that is supposed to not let the fuel siphon out of the filter back to the tank.
If it goes bad, the fuel can siphon out of the filter and cause starting issues like you describe.

Find the line and cut it. Then insert a bolt in each end and secure with hose clamps.
That line is not needed and there is a TSB about the fix I described.

As for the wet with fuel in the valley pan, you need to find where it is coming from. If there is fuel in the valley pan, where ever it is coming from can also let air into the fuel system.
if the return caps do not look wet, there is a drain hole on the bottom of the IP neck. If the fuel is coming out of the IP, you need a new one.

You should have more power since the turbo is actually doing something now. With a 1/4" gap in the up pipe it was just extra weight to haul around.

When I replace my return O rings, I do them all. I have found they get hard rather fast with the hot fuel running through them. Once they are hard, all it takes is a small amount of movement and they start leaking. When I did this repair the first couple of times, I just replaced the one that was leaking. Next day the ones on both sides of that one were leaking, so I replaced them. I chased the leaks around the engine for a couple weeks till I got mad and replaced them all at once. Problem fixed after I got mad.

 

so just cut the return line going to the top of the fuel filter?! and put a bolt in it? well i wil let u know how that goes i will try it tonight

 

i just looked the btm of the injection pump has wetness on it... the very btm where theers a BIG lookin allen screw on the pasenger side of the pump... btm of that... and like if i rev it to bout 2300-3000 iss's horribly and smokes like crazy but when driving no smoke... and that 2300-3000 when its warm.. and thers no signs if it quittin...??

 

Just wondering here, where is the timing marks on the IP and don't you loosen the 3 big bolts and turn the whole pump to adjust timing? I saw 8.5* BTDC is the most common setting, well what is the setting at stock?

 

My manual calls for 8.5 degrees BTDC, plus or minus 2 degrees on a 7.3 at 2000 RPM.