frame tweaked.. can i fix?
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frame tweaked.. can i fix?
Here is the deal, the frame rail on the passenger side is tweaked a small bit and i couldnt figure out why until tonight.
apparently there used to be a cross member there that was removed to fit the 302/ c4 combo in by the previous owner..
Now the frame is straight, and the only problem i can notice is the cab looks to sag a bit on the passenger side.. I also noticed that the mounts for the running boards tilt a bit on the passenger side...
Do you think i could use a press of some sorts with the cab on there to push the frame back a bit? and then put some sort of cross member in?
My question is, how could i build a cross member that would support the frame rail/cab right there but also stay out of the way of the c4? Anyone have any pictures?
Thanks guys!
ben
apparently there used to be a cross member there that was removed to fit the 302/ c4 combo in by the previous owner..
Now the frame is straight, and the only problem i can notice is the cab looks to sag a bit on the passenger side.. I also noticed that the mounts for the running boards tilt a bit on the passenger side...
Do you think i could use a press of some sorts with the cab on there to push the frame back a bit? and then put some sort of cross member in?
My question is, how could i build a cross member that would support the frame rail/cab right there but also stay out of the way of the c4? Anyone have any pictures?
Thanks guys!
ben
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okay. the frame is square.. however the left rail is "twisted" under the front part of the cab
the crossmember there was removed to fit a c4 transmission in and the weight of the cab over the years twisted the frame
so instead of the frame lookin like
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it looks somewhat like \ (not that bad, but enough that the front of the cab sags on that side, and the running board mount sags..
the crossmember there was removed to fit a c4 transmission in and the weight of the cab over the years twisted the frame
so instead of the frame lookin like
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it looks somewhat like \ (not that bad, but enough that the front of the cab sags on that side, and the running board mount sags..
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its a 55 ... and i put a heidts MII kit on it, the frame is fine except for the twist portion, and its not that bad. I have talked to other hot rod builders and they said it can be placed on a frame table and fixed for fairly cheap.. however i need to figure out how to support it afterwards by creating a new crossmember..
i do not want to have to get a new frame when this is so minor and i have the MII already on it
i do not want to have to get a new frame when this is so minor and i have the MII already on it
Last edited by create; Jun 7, 2006 at 01:24 AM.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2005
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Straigntening a frame (if minor) is pretty easy. We made a "frame machine" from a small "I" beam and used chains and a 10 ton porta power. It would pull a modern car in half if we wanted to. LOL
As far as a crossmember, making something should be relatively easy if you have a welder (or a buddy with one). You might be able to modify one from a newer vehicle to fit as well.
On the other hand...could you simply move the mounts up to compensate for the sag?
As far as a crossmember, making something should be relatively easy if you have a welder (or a buddy with one). You might be able to modify one from a newer vehicle to fit as well.
On the other hand...could you simply move the mounts up to compensate for the sag?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Harpswell Maine
If I understand it correctly one frame rail is twisted such that the running board brackets and therefore the running board droops. I assume that the original crossmember has been out of the truck for some time and the truck used If the trans mount crossmember is removed (note that it is really there for an important reason) and you step on the board or bracket it will be noticeably springy with the crossmember removed. I moved my crossmember back and will bolt it back in about a foot further back prior to sandbasting the frame. If you do not have the original crossmember as others have indicated you will have to make one. Note that I did this on a 49 F-1 and assume that the same issues occur on the 53 and after trucks. If you unbolt the cab but leave it in place you should be able to twist the frame back so that the outer frame rail face is vertical again. If I have it right the cab mounts are preventing you from easily twistng the frame rail back into position. Once in posiotn install a crossmember. Note that most aftermarket trans crossmembers do not adequately box the two frame rils together and would allow more frame twist than the original (at least on my F-1).
Last edited by 49willard; Jun 7, 2006 at 08:36 AM.
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From: Kingsford, MI
Ben, have any pics of your truck sitting with the cab and box on the frame? Mine sits a little crooked too. I THOUGHT/hoped it was because the box is not completely bolted down, but after reading this, I'm worried I might have the same problem. My truck was updated to a 302/C-4 sometime in the past. I dont know what the situation is with the front cross member. I havent checked.... yet!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Tucson AZ
Brian is correct in that you can do this yourself with a little cootie-bobbin, a come along and maybe a port-a-power, once the frame is back in the correct position box it in and then fabbing a x-member will be easy. LOL
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
What is supporting the rear of the transmission? There are tranny crossmembers available from suppliers like Mid Fifty, but those bolt to the lower frame flange only. They could be modified to bolt to the top flange as well to hold the frame vertical.
Or else you could use one of the tubular engine mount crossmembers that attach to the sides of the frame. If they hang down too much they could be rotated to an angle less than vertical or even turned upside down. You could trim off the engine mount pads or possibly use them as a mounting point for exhausts or ???. IMHO you cannot fab a crossmember for the 55.00 cost of one of the ready made ones.
Or else you could use one of the tubular engine mount crossmembers that attach to the sides of the frame. If they hang down too much they could be rotated to an angle less than vertical or even turned upside down. You could trim off the engine mount pads or possibly use them as a mounting point for exhausts or ???. IMHO you cannot fab a crossmember for the 55.00 cost of one of the ready made ones.
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AX,
The rear crossmember that supports the transmission just sits on the lower frame flange, just liek you said, and doesnt really help the cause.
I am thinking about doing exactly what 49willard said and taking the cab off, straightening things myself and then replacing the crossmember with a boxed/strong one
fiftysixf: I do not have any pictures at the moment but i will get some this afternoon.
The rear crossmember that supports the transmission just sits on the lower frame flange, just liek you said, and doesnt really help the cause.
I am thinking about doing exactly what 49willard said and taking the cab off, straightening things myself and then replacing the crossmember with a boxed/strong one
fiftysixf: I do not have any pictures at the moment but i will get some this afternoon.
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actually, i did have a picture, this is me putting in the mII unit, but you get a good shot at the cab on the left side.. As you can tell teh cab mount angles down (and yes, it does need a new bushing for the mount, but the cab is almost touching the rail.. I am not sure what the measurement should be there but you can see it angle down.. you can also see the running boards angle down..
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Hate to mention it, but welding in the MII may have been what twisted the frame. You could fab a T shaped gusset for the tranny mount where the top of the T would bolt to the top flange of the rail.
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The MII is only tack welded in at the momment, i never found a professional welder to come and finish it..
how could that have twisted it? It was like that before? even in this picture, this is jus tin the setup stages. where it is just tack welded in
how could that have twisted it? It was like that before? even in this picture, this is jus tin the setup stages. where it is just tack welded in
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Harpswell Maine
I think that you will find that if you put a 2 x 6 under the two forward running board brackets close to the frame rail and jack carefully under the 2 x 6 board it will get rid of the droop. I would use a framing square from outside frame rail to floor to get the right location. Note that the frame needs to be level side to side to get a correct check with the framing square. Then block it in place and fitup your new/old crossmember. If jacking does not easily correct the twist, you may need to jack and block the cab up off the frame silightly first. If it does not twist back easily (it should) don't force it.
When I boxed the front of my frame I had it on 4 evenly spaced jackstands on a level foor with a 100# bag of black beauty on top of the frame directly over each jackstand. I fully tacked it before final welding. I had no frame problems. I would recommed a similar approach when you final weld in the MII.
When I boxed the front of my frame I had it on 4 evenly spaced jackstands on a level foor with a 100# bag of black beauty on top of the frame directly over each jackstand. I fully tacked it before final welding. I had no frame problems. I would recommed a similar approach when you final weld in the MII.