Help I'm Bleeding
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Junior User
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From: Garden City Kansas
Help I'm Bleeding
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Jan-02 AT 10:46 PM (EST)]Got a slight problem. I have completed swaping disc/power brakes on my 71 ford. I used all the parts off a 78 and bought a new master cylinder and brake booster for a 78. I have done all my brake line and am now ready to start bleeding my brakes. The problem is we aint getting anything out of my bleeders. The level in the master cylinder isn't droping at all. To make sure nothing was plugged in the line i blew air into the line that goes into the master cylinder. sure enough fluid came out of the bleeder on the rear wheel. What am i doing wrong? I'm bleeding it just like i have bled anything else. also fluid comes out of the cylinder when I had it out of the truck. I dont know for sure if fluid will come out of the back port w/ the lines off in the truck. I know fluid will come out of the frontHow can you tell if you have the pushrod adjusted right that goes into the master cylinder? Any help is appreciated.
Richard Boyd
Richard Boyd
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Help I'm Bleeding
Did you put in the propotional valve in place of the manifold block down on the frame to go with the disk brakes? You need one with disk brakes to make them work right. Sorry I can't help you with the rod adjustment but someone should be along to help you on that. Good luck Greg NE
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Help I'm Bleeding
If you want the directions for the pushrod adjustment,
E-mail me direct.
Dennis
Oh....Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving Up MY Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles
E-mail me direct.
Dennis
Oh....Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving Up MY Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"
78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles
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From: Virginia
Help I'm Bleeding
I believe when you push on the pedal, and a brake fluid geyser shoots up out of the master cylinder, then the pushrod is right. I don't understand it exactly, but it has something to do with ports in the cylinder being uncovered called compensating ports.
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From: Garden City Kansas
Help I'm Bleeding
Also I was wondering about the porportion valve. Do I have to mess with it when i'm bleeding the back brakes? It seems like you have to pull out the rod to bleed the front so do you have to push in on it to bleed the back? thanks
Richard
Richard
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I have a 72 f100 with the dic conversion I bought a brass OEM Proportional Valve.
The problem I'm having is the valve acts like its not releasing pressure back to the MC so the shoes are constantly dragging I can do maybe 4 to 6 stops then the drag is noticeable the peddle is stiff and the drums heat up. Are those brass OEM PValves known for this? How can I fix this?
I did not release the pin in the front of the PV when I bled the brakes.
Some one here mentioned you need to have the same MC as the year of the donor 1978 why would I need to do this? Is there a difference between disc and drum MC?
Any help is appreciated
The problem I'm having is the valve acts like its not releasing pressure back to the MC so the shoes are constantly dragging I can do maybe 4 to 6 stops then the drag is noticeable the peddle is stiff and the drums heat up. Are those brass OEM PValves known for this? How can I fix this?
I did not release the pin in the front of the PV when I bled the brakes.
Some one here mentioned you need to have the same MC as the year of the donor 1978 why would I need to do this? Is there a difference between disc and drum MC?
Any help is appreciated
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
ZOMBIE THREAD ALERT
A disc/drum MC has a larger reservoir for the front discs because disc pistons require more fluid to move than a drum's slave cylinder.
The metering action is provided by a distribution valve which is drum/drum, disc/drum, or disc/disc. So yes, it matters. I ditched the OEM setup and went with an adjustable Wilwood unit.
I had the same lock-up problem on my '70 but the problem was a bad booster that wasn't releasing pressure after a few applications of the pedal.
A disc/drum MC has a larger reservoir for the front discs because disc pistons require more fluid to move than a drum's slave cylinder.
The metering action is provided by a distribution valve which is drum/drum, disc/drum, or disc/disc. So yes, it matters. I ditched the OEM setup and went with an adjustable Wilwood unit.
I had the same lock-up problem on my '70 but the problem was a bad booster that wasn't releasing pressure after a few applications of the pedal.
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Joe Kucinski
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ZOMBIE THREAD ALERT
A disc/drum MC has a larger reservoir for the front discs because disc pistons require more fluid to move than a drum's slave cylinder.
The metering action is provided by a distribution valve which is drum/drum, disc/drum, or disc/disc. So yes, it matters. I ditched the OEM setup and went with an adjustable Wilwood unit.
I had the same lock-up problem on my '70 but the problem was a bad booster that wasn't releasing pressure after a few applications of the pedal.
A disc/drum MC has a larger reservoir for the front discs because disc pistons require more fluid to move than a drum's slave cylinder.
The metering action is provided by a distribution valve which is drum/drum, disc/drum, or disc/disc. So yes, it matters. I ditched the OEM setup and went with an adjustable Wilwood unit.
I had the same lock-up problem on my '70 but the problem was a bad booster that wasn't releasing pressure after a few applications of the pedal.
I have a 73 450 SE Mercedes that had rear brake lockup. A guy said change the rubber hoses. When the hoses get old they swell internally and wont return fluid. That's exactly what my problem was. I changed hoses and brakes were good.
Yeah LOL I looked at the 2002 date of this thread and laughed. I wasn't sure if anybody would respond. But thanks so much for the reply and the great insight.
This FORD site and everyone's contributions has saved a lot of headaches. and a lot of great old trucks from the crusher.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Ahh! Thanks for the explanation That makes sense bigger reservoir for discs. The Adjustable Wilwood valve looks like the bomb I'm going to order one. I think while I'm at it I'll get a new booster and MC too. Brakes are too important to to mess around with cheap worn out parts.
I have a 73 450 SE Mercedes that had rear brake lockup. A guy said change the rubber hoses. When the hoses get old they swell internally and wont return fluid. That's exactly what my problem was. I changed hoses and brakes were good.
Yeah LOL I looked at the 2002 date of this thread and laughed. I wasn't sure if anybody would respond. But thanks so much for the reply and the great insight.
This FORD site and everyone's contributions has saved a lot of headaches. and a lot of great old trucks from the crusher.
I have a 73 450 SE Mercedes that had rear brake lockup. A guy said change the rubber hoses. When the hoses get old they swell internally and wont return fluid. That's exactly what my problem was. I changed hoses and brakes were good.
Yeah LOL I looked at the 2002 date of this thread and laughed. I wasn't sure if anybody would respond. But thanks so much for the reply and the great insight.
This FORD site and everyone's contributions has saved a lot of headaches. and a lot of great old trucks from the crusher.
Glad to shed light on the matter.If you had responded to a Zombie thread, we would question the content of your noodle.You basically opened it and posted a new question.
Below is the Wilwood unit I used.. I had to fab up my own bracket but wouldn't ya know it, one year later Wilwood comes out with their own.
Additional info in my build thread:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-build-10.html
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,511
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From: hinckley ohio
Check the rod between the m/c and the booster there should be no resistance when you slide the m/c back to booster if there is shorten the pin. Mine was to long and when brakes got warm they dragged badly.You cannt use the 78 pedal either it has the hole off and pedal will be closer to the floor.
Freshman User
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Glad to shed light on the matter.If you had responded to a Zombie thread, we would question the content of your noodle.You basically opened it and posted a new question.
Below is the Wilwood unit I used.. I had to fab up my own bracket but wouldn't ya know it, one year later Wilwood comes out with their own.
Additional info in my build thread:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-build-10.html
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Check the rod between the m/c and the booster there should be no resistance when you slide the m/c back to booster if there is shorten the pin. Mine was to long and when brakes got warm they dragged badly.You cannt use the 78 pedal either it has the hole off and pedal will be closer to the floor.
Come to think of it I am using the brake pedal off the 78 donor. I did lengthen the booster pin about 1/4 in to have the M/C pedal resistance 3 in from the top of stroke. Before I lengthened the pin m/c fluid resistance was about 2 inches off the floor.
What pedal mods do you recommend?