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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 07:39 PM
  #1  
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ha38349
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electrical gremlin

I've got a problem with my 90 3.0L that is driving me crazy! It seems to be fuel pump circuit related, replaced the fuel pump because I thought that was the problem but it is back. I get a check engine light but no codes. Seems worse when the engine is hot, usually restarts no problem. Today when it happened and would not restart I got a lot of crazy clicking from the relays on the left fender wall near the battery. Pulled them out, they seemed rather warm. Engine started right up and I drove it home with no additional problem.
Anyone know which of the three relays are the fuel pump?
Anyone have a wiring diagram for a 90 they can scan and post? (misplaced mine)
Any other suggestions?
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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I can help you with the relays:

starting closest to the firewall and working your way to the front:
Auxiliary Power Relay
WOT Cutout Relay
Tach test connector
EEC Power Relay
Fuel Pump Relay
VIP Test Connector
DSSS Test Connector
and then the big round one is the Starter Relay
 
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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Sounds exactly like my '92, except I never get a CEL. It just cuts out on me. By the time I get the car off the road and stopped, and my heart started, the van starts and runs OK. For a mile or so, then it happens again.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 02:48 AM
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Try insulating those relay wire components from heat. Also, replace your factory 4 guage ground wire, with a 2 or 1/0 guage cable, with a pigtail ground (sometimes two) to the body. You'll love the difference, immediate bright dash lights, headlights pure and bright white, including noticeably faster turn signal / 4-way flasher "flash / click" operation. After repeat AFTER what CookKD said.
There is a mom and pop battery store near Sacramento. You simply drop off your stock cable as a model. Then they custom make a 2 guage 1/0 guage fatty cable, in one or two business days, if they don't have it already. That extra copper wire, makes a huge difference. They do the majority of their business with guys building street rods, street machine and muscle cars from the ground up, as well as the Fast and the Furious Import crowd, those guys putting mega stereo systems in their cars, where above average wiring is desired.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 05:05 AM
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Ha! I have diagrams, but I need you e-mail address.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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Thanks, but I got the diagrams I need. Still no joy, have weird behavior after heating up. Seems like an ignition miss so I'm going to do the TFI and then the coil, but I'm beginning to think it is the ECC getting hot and then flaky.

Symptoms: starts good and runs good cold. After it warms up I notice a miss or stumble that will come and go for 10 minutes. Once it is good and hot I'll get a check engine light and lose of power which will come and go for a few minutes but get longer each time. Then finally check engine and cut off at idle. At this point I can hear the fuel pump running. Do the key off / key on cycle and sometimes everything clears up for awhile, other times I have to wait awhile for things to cool off.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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I just posted a responce to another thread that has a problem like this. My van suffered this problem a few years ago. Heres what i found to be the problem, water had gotten into one of the two big electric block connectors above the engine and under the front wind shield, I spent a lot of time and money trying to find this problem, when i took the connector apart i found water in it and a few of the connections burnt out, i managed to clean up the connections with a small nail file and then i added loads of dilectric grease to it, so far this has worked i have not had a problem in two years, the only thing i have noticed is that i cannot use the new electronic type relays in my van, they just will not work so i have had to scour the wreckers yards for the old type relays and now have quite a large collection in case the ones in my van go bad. Oh and by the way i found that rain water can get into these connectors so it might be a good idea to cover them with some plastic.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 10:00 PM
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missing or dying after warm up are classical signs of TFI or coil failing
any KOER codes? many sensor problems will not set a memory KOEO code.

try these links for TFI troubleshooting
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3349/test.htm
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3349/remote.htm
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec2002/techtotech.cfm

Ranger forum has much more on TFI problems
 
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 06:01 AM
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HA! Connect an osciliscope ore LED to check PIP signal. If it is not ok, check harnes, hall-effect sensor and finally TFI
 
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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thanks for all the hints, CBR900 may be you are on to something. I'm pretty convinced now that it is some sort of electrical connection problem that is not directly related to high temps.
I'll take a good look at the two big connectors and look for signs of problems.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 06:39 PM
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hey ha3849 I hope that this may be your problem because it is an easy fix, even if you have to replace the connector, thats what i was going to do, get a good connector from the wreckers yard cutting back the wires a few inches and splice it into your harness. But i would have soldered the wires to gether because some of those wires carry a heavy load.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 08:02 PM
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The connections look good, no obvious signs of corrosion. But drove it around some this evening after playing with the connections and no signs of a problem. So I’m thinking the problem is just lurking there waiting for an opportunity to surprise me again. I’ll go get some electrical contact cleaner and wait for the problem again.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 07:55 AM
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HA! Sometimes TFI gives you some surprises before full stop! SOmetimes Hall effect sensor.... It is reccomended to replace both TFI and Sensor
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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Excellent !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
missing or dying after warm up are classical signs of TFI or coil failing
any KOER codes? many sensor problems will not set a memory KOEO code.

try these links for TFI troubleshooting
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3349/test.htm
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/3349/remote.htm
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec2002/techtotech.cfm

Ranger forum has much more on TFI problems
This thread came up from a search on TFI no start. The resistance tests on the module is what I was looking for.
Thanks Much !!!!!!!!!!
AL.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 12:37 AM
  #15  
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I used this test too. IT works!
 
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