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I was looking for info on removing the front end from my 53 f100. Is there a trick to it? Can I leave it all bolted together? and what is up with the bolts that are behind the kick panels? They are a serious pain!!! Trying to get started on the complete rebuild. Thanks Billy
I was looking for info on removing the front end from my 53 f100. Is there a trick to it? Can I leave it all bolted together? and what is up with the bolts that are behind the kick panels? They are a serious pain!!! Trying to get started on the complete rebuild. Thanks Billy
should be doable, but awkward
there are 5 bolts on each side at the radiator support, 2 on top, 3 down the face thru the air dams.
there are 4 on each inner fender,
then 4 on each outer fender.. three from the inside, one from the outside (at the bottom as already mentioned).. These last 4 will usually be well rusted.. soak em good with wd, or some other penetrant..
i got the power steering gear box friday afternoon. it looks to be in pretty good shape. im already looking at building my own mounting brackets for it.
i will post pics when i do.
thanks,
bobb
I have taken the front of my 56 off both ways (separate pieces and as an assembly). It is definately a two-man job. Getting the whole clip off with the radiator support attached is a pain and the assembly is pretty hard for even two guys to handle. Remove the hood. Pull the radiator, remove the (2) radiator support bolts to the frame crossmember, the fender attach bolts at cab and firewall. Pull the entire clip out.
Taking each side off as an assembly is an easier do. The air dam and inner/outer fenders will come off together easily, and it leaves the mechanical stuff still functional. Remove the hood first, then the grill, then the gravel shield and fender braces (struts). Then remove the bolts for air dam to rad support, then fender attach bolts at the cowl and firewall. Once the assembly was off, I broke down each to the individual components.
A tip: (If you like how everything fits) I drilled 1/8 holes (at least 2 per joint) between the mating parts before I started disassembling them. That way, when it goes back together, I can cleco the holes and repeat exactly the locations for everything that I had. Drill holes between inner/outer fenders, fenders/air dam, fenders/firewall.
Another tip: If your attach bolts are badly rusted, it is many times easier to just tighten them until they break than try to unthread them. Of course, use an impact wrench or breaker bar.
Last edited by Randy Jack; Jun 5, 2006 at 09:12 AM.
I took my '56 front off recently as an assembly. I did it by myself using an engine hoist, some eye bolts installed along the top edge of the fenders and some ratchet straps to create a sling. It worked Ok but I should of also jacked the truck up and removed the front wheels. Would of made it easier. I dissassembled to put back on because I did work to the individual pieces.It is quick and works fine if you are not concerned about bumping the metal or possibly nicking the paint. It might be tougher going back on the same way. Kinda springy and flexible.
Thanks for all the great info, I am gonna try to get it off this weekend. Its hard when you have 2 jobs and a newborn. Oh well, it can only get easier. I don't get on much, so I just did my gallery last night. I have a 1 owner 1953 F-100 Economy model. Been parked in a barn since 1976. single round tailight, passenger door lock only, no turn signals. I have all the original sales paperwork. It was bought 12-10-1953 in Austin, Texas, and it was built at the Dallas, Texas assembly plant. I even got the warranty paperwork that was typed at the dealer and the original title. So far the only rust is in the bed at the front lip where the wood met. I just built a 10' tall A-frame for pulling the cab from the chassis, so I am sure I will be asking a lot of questions in the near future.