Hello all, this is my first post. I don't have a whole lot of engine knowledge, but any input would help. I have an 86' cube van that I use maybe once a week for raing. Usually sits in winter. Been driving for 2 years with no problems... About a month ago I replaced the batteries because I left my rear aux. lights on in the rear (big work lamp installed). Well then things seemed fine. Last weekend took it up north and about 2 hours into the drive it lost power and felt like i let my foot off the feed, burped a few times, and hesitated, then let out a huge backfire, I thought it died because I coasted to a stop, but it was still running. Took off again and drove about 15 miles, burped and hesitated, but then was fine. Next day took off, 40 minutes into the drive while slowing down it just dies, wouldnt start, waited 15 minutes, drove it 30 more miles and dies again. Took it to a shop and left it, they said vapor locking (it was like 95 degrees plus all weekend). So last Thursday went and got it, started great and ran awesome all the way home(3 hours), not a single problem. Well now this past weekend, drove it 2 hours, burped one time going down the road, but fine. It sat during the night, and this morning...Went to start it, wouldnt start, after holding the choke we got it running, ran fine for a few minutes then goes into about a 500 rpm rough rough idle for a minute or two then it just kicks back into normal idle mode like the swith of a light. pump the gas and it kinda bogs.. Tried to drive it down the road, seemed ok, then it goes into that rough idle. it died. got it going again and got it back to my unlces. got it back and it wouldnt start, let sit for 30 minutes and it started up again with the use of messing with the choke, same thing...idles fine, then rough, then fine. Engine i think is a 351W, checked fuel filter, seemed ok, 2 new batteries, newer alternater, brain box is a year old or so, This is about all the info I have. Oh and one more thing sometimes when it does start it is when you are holding the key on like normal and a soon as you let off the key like to just give up, it then fires up. Any starters where to look first would be appriciated grately.. Thanks

 

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Okay, there are a few things it could be. We'll start simple. It's an '86 so it has a carbed 351wHO. Look at the distributor does it have a module attached to it, and the coil is square, or is it a round coil with the igntion module on the fender? In any case the steps are the same, remove the ignition module and get it tested. If it passes make them retest no less than 10 times. This will heat it up to operation temp. If it checks out fine then move on to plugs and wires. When were they last changed? You really need to make it a point to drive it at least once a week. Take it to work or whatever, but get it good and warmed up. This will help with keeping it running.

 

Hey, it has a round coil, and I don't know if it has a module attached to the dis. Also yes it has the ignition module mounted on the driver side fender. It was replaced about a year and a half ago. Thanks for the advice, I will check those things out this weekend.

 

Yeah, if the module checks out there is a PIP sensor in the distributor itself. It's pretty easy to replace. Get a haynes manual it will help imensely.

 

I'll get it tested for sure? Is it common to go out only being 1 or 2 years old? Can I do this at a NAPA? Also that PIP sensor,,,is that also know as a pick up sensor or coil? My cousin suspects that its bad. Thanks.

 

It may be listed as either depending on who you ask. I don't know if your napa has the machine to test the ICM, most autozones do though. It's not uncommon for the ICM to go bad, also check the wiring at the dizzy. We had an '82 15pass van that had a bad wire there and was causing a similar problem.

 

re:fuel filter

I don't know how you "check" a fuel filter without removing it. You should have one near the carb and a filter screen in the carb. Replace both for <$10.

What you describe could be a blocked cat. converter too.


The Ign module on the fender is pretty cheap to replace as long as it is a "blue" one. Note the wire colors and match them to something on-line at www.advanceautoparts.com