I have a 1968 f100, 360cid 2wd. I was going to get a shop to do my rebuild for me, but now i am thinking about doing it my self. I really do not know a lot about engines so i need all of your help. I am definitly going to get "how to rebuild your big block ford by steve christ." to help me out (cus im gunna need it!). Ok my question are what type of rebuild kit should i get, What is the best deal? What is the diffence between Cast pistons and Forged pistons.How do i know what i have now?(cast/forged)My engine is stock. I am probably going to order it from The 2 yellow page add that PAW has. Here are there rebuild kits and the prices. Also it would be great if i could just order the 390 kit and make my 360 into a 390 because they use the same blocks. With what kits can i do this with? Also what type of special tools will i need for these kits. Will i ever have to take my engine into a shop to get special things done to it for a rebuild? do i have to actually take the engine out, or can i do it still connected?

ENGINE OVERHAUL SPECIAL
360/390=($144)

*clevite 77 rod bearings
*clevite 77 main bearings
*engine gasket set
*Sealed power piston rings (add 16$ for moly rings)

DELUXE ENGINE REBUILD KIT INCLUDES
360/390 =$182

*piston rings
*rod bearings
*main bearings
*oil pump
*engine gasket set
*timing chain set

DELUXE MASTER REBUILD KIT INCLUDES
360=($401cast)($614forged) 390=($401 cast) ($614 forged)

*pistons (cast or trw forged)
*sealed power pistons rings
*rod and main bearings
*premium engine gasket set
*timing chain set with gears
*oil pump
*camshaft and lifters (solid, stock, hydraulic or performance)

SUPER STOCK PISTON KIT INCLUDES
360=($298 cast)($511 forged) 390=($298 cast)($511 forged)

*piston and pins
*piston ring set
*con rod bearings and main bearings
*stock or performance camshaft

SUPER STOCK MASTER KITS INCLUDES
360=($843 cast)($1056 forged) 390=($868 cast)($1081 forged)

*piston and pins
*rod and main bearings
*timing chain set
*piston rings
*crankshaft
*oil pump
*connecting rods
*camshaft and lifters
*gasket set

SUPER STOCK CRANK KIT INCLUDES
360=($695 cast)($908 forged) 390=($720 cast)($933 forged)

*piston and pins
*rod and main bearings
*piston rings
*connecting rods
*crankshaft

There they are, it took me a long time to type all this so i would appreciate your help. Thanks.

 

Tools List:
Engine Hoist
Engine Stand
Torque wrench
Micrometer
Plastigauge
Socket Sets
Wrenches
Small Fibre Hammer
Pulley Pullers
Piston Compressor
Wooden Mallet
Wire Wheel/Grinder


Supplies:
Cam lube
Anti-Seize compound
Paint
Lacquer Thinner
Varsol
Gasket cement
RV Sealer

Just to name a few things,There is more,I just can't think of everything right now.

You might also want to get
Pat Ganahl's Ford performance Book Too.

Ken sells it in his store here.


Dennis

Oh....Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions As:
"I'm Saving Up MY Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's"






78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles

 

The engine will have to be out in order to do it because you will at least have to have the engine honed if not bored. Don't buy any kits before you know what size pistons you need. You may have a previously rebuilt engine that is already .030 over. You will not need forged pistons unless you are going to be pushing some serious horsepower or running nitrous. Rebuilding an engine isn't all that hard but remember to take your time and do not hesitate to ask questions. Steve Christs book is a great book for someone with a fair amount of mechanical knowledge but for a complete beginner you will need a better source of info like this forum. I have heard nothing great about PAW's rebuild kits. You may want to consider geting a crank kit from a parts store and getting yours rods from a machine shop. Pistons can be bought from autozone for 100 dollars a set.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 18-Jan-02 AT 00:23 AM (EST)]If you do bore it, make sure you give them the pistons with the block so they can get the right clearence. Boring is around $10 a hole. Bring the came bearing in too. They have to be pressed in. Should also bring in the heads to get rebuilt if there is alot of miles on them. This will probably be the greatest expence at the machine shop and veries depending on what has to be done. I would also hot tank the block if you want to paint it, saves alot of time and costs about $45. Also have them check the crank. If they have to grind the journal that will be about another $65. Do you have a piston ring expander? They charged me $30 to install the rings and put the pistons on the rod. The plastigage should come in the rebuild kit. I guess it all depends on your budget. It is pretty easy rebuilding engines. Read as much stuff as possible. Check out the tech article on this site. They have an article on rebuilding engines. Good luck

Bob

 

I bought an engine rebuild kit, for a chevy, a few years back from PAW and it worked out fine.

One thing I did with my rebuild that I think is worthwhile is to have the shop that does the boring and honing bolt a torque plate onto the block before they do the honing. This is a thick steel plate that simulates having the cylinder head on the engine. My engine had good compression and never burned a drop of oil right from the first time I fired it up.

By the way I have a copy of HOW TO REBUILD YOU BIG BLOCK FORD which I would be willing to part with.

Good luck

 

If you aren't pressed for time I would consider buying a used motor/vehicle and rebuilding that one while you drive your old bullet. That would cut down on the pressure to get it done. Once finished you could swap them out in a day with help from a bud.
You also need to make an honest decision on what you want the engine to do. If it's a daily driver you don't want to make it such a hot rod it's a pain to drive.


Bear Tracks

 

I'd find a couple very reputable machine shops in the area, meet with the engine builders and then pick one to build a long block. They generally get all the parts you'll need for much less than you'd be paying retail. Also, with them putting the whole thing together takes the pressure off you in trying to do something correctly that might be very foreign...plus, you'll probably get a 12-18 month warranty from the shop. You can still pick and chose the specific components you want for your rebuild such as pistons, rings and cam.

After pricing rebuild kits and separate machine work. I found it much more economical (and practical) to have a machine shop do all the work.