48 F-2 4x4?
#3
To do your '48 - '52 F-2 you'd have to do it like Marmon-Herrington did it. They cut the transmission cross member and added a hoop and gusset to allow the front drive shaft to clear. I think it would probably be easier to do a '53 to '56. I parted out a '53 M-H and saw no similar frame mods.
#4
your best bet would be to find a 4x4 frame that is the same width and length as yours and use it and build brackets to mount your body on it, thats what i did with my 59 as it was a 2 wheel drive when i got it but now its 4. simplicity would depend on if you were going to update engines, if not you would have to build crossmembers for motor and tranni. hope this helps
#5
80's Ranger frame. The local diesel/heavy equipment mechanic at the LPcorp. plant has one under his 48F1. granted the F2 is longer, but they also made different length rangers. Not heavy duty driveline IMO, but for basic 4x4 seems to work and look fine. His truck is his daily driver and has a plow on it.
#7
One more thing to think about. There's been lots of threads done here about the difficulties you'll encounter when moving a Bonus Built body and nose over to a modern frame. Unless you've got more changes planned than just the 4x4 conversion, adding a hoop and gusset would be simpler than dealing with all the mounting issues that will go with using the other frame. Here's a pic of the hoop and gusset. FWIW. Stu
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#8
To get on my soap box and chime in. Please, if you go the old body on newer frame route, please match the wheel base to the fender space. Nothing, well almost nothing, looks as bad as wheels not centered in the fenders. I believe the later F250 had a wheelbase of 131-3" as opposed the the 122" of the F2.
I will second Stu's recommendation about adapting the axles and transfer case to the the F-2 frame. Notching the cross member and matching the axle spring perches to the leaf springs may be less work than endless measuring/fabbing body mounts, radiator mounts, engine mounts, etc.
I will second Stu's recommendation about adapting the axles and transfer case to the the F-2 frame. Notching the cross member and matching the axle spring perches to the leaf springs may be less work than endless measuring/fabbing body mounts, radiator mounts, engine mounts, etc.
Last edited by 1952henry; 06-04-2006 at 09:11 AM.
#9
#10
Yeah, just FWIW. But, 48 F-2, since it sounds like you're planning to use the full drive train from the 76, you'll want to post what drive train that is. It will probably matter whether it's an automatic or a stick, has a separate transfer case or a siamesed case which, am I correct, some had in the 70s? If your plan is to change motor mounts and tranny cross member anyway, then maybe it's a wash on effort. Stu