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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1995 F-150 Bogging down

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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 10:19 PM
  #31  
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Thanks Subford, Then that's what I will do. At least I should be able to clear up the EGR problem(Code) by doing this. Will plugging these cause drivability problems related to what we're working on now? So my plan now should be to:

Plug those selonoid lines(Do I plug the selonoid fittings or the lines??)
Hook up vacuum to EVR selonoid(Should I hook right from the "can" to the EVR?)
Have the 02 sensor hooked up
Clear the codes again
Drive it for a bit
See what codes come up next.....

Does that sound right?? Or should I go about this in a different way?

Also, what about the fuel pressure idea? Should I follow up on that right now??
 

Last edited by rickdb1; Jun 3, 2006 at 10:28 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 10:27 PM
  #32  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by rickdb1
Thanks Subford, Then that's what I will do. At least I should be able to clear up the EGR problem(Code) by doing this. Will plugging these cause drivability problems related to what we're working on now? So my plan now should be to:

Plug those selonoid lines(Do I plug the selonoid fittings or the lines??)
Hook up vacuum to EVR selonoid
Have the 02 sensor hooked up
Clear the codes again
Drive it for a bit
See what codes come up next.....

Does that sound right?? Or should I go about this in a different way?
Just pull the vacuum line off the first AIR Valve and put it on the EVR Valve.
The rest sounds right.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 10:30 PM
  #33  
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Ok. I'll do that and see how it goes and let you know tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully we will get somewhere with it....Thanks again for the help...

Rick
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 10:48 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rickdb1
OK. This is what I got this time. Remember I had the 02 sensor unplugged after clearing the codes, so I expected the 172 code. As for the EGR, it was clogged up before and I freed it up(Read post up above). But one thing I did notice, is that when you pop the throttle, it doesn't move like every other car I've worked on before. Related to that, is the fact that I don't think I'm getting a good vacuum to it. The reason I say this is, I removed the black vacuum line from the EVR and applied direct engine vacuum from an unused port on the engine. Then it popped open like it should when I popped the throttle open. I should have mentioned this before, but I really thought something else might control vacuum to the EVR. But as I read the Manual further, it says that the black line to the EVR will ALWAYS have vacuum. It does not on mine...So what do you think now?
111
172
332

Nope. Didn't check fuel pressure. How do I do that?

Thanks, Rick

Another thought related to the fuel pressure. Would the truck run good, even though it had low fuel pressure, when the 02 sensor is disconnected? I would think if I had low pressure, disconnecting the 02 sensor wouldn't matter. It would still starve for fuel, wouldn't it? I don't know....This thing is about to beat me and I can feel the money flying out the window at the service dept......AARRGGGHH

Now we're getting somewhere.

it is EGR system.
Check your EGR system. do what subford said.

Ignored fuel pressure testing at this time.

when the 02 sensor is disconnected? I would think if I had low pressure, disconnecting the 02 sensor wouldn't matter. It would still starve for fuel, wouldn't it?
No, when the HEGO sensor is disconnected. The computer goes into open loop. [ rich mode ]
When in "rich mode" the computer is commanding the injectors to stay open longer.
You'll have additional fuel to cover up lean condition or weak pump.

In layman's term...when the injectors are open longer, you'll have more fuel going into cylinder than going to tank via return line.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 11:00 PM
  #35  
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No, when the HEGO sensor is disconnected. The computer goes into open loop. [ rich mode ]
When in "rich mode" the computer is commanding the injectors to stay open longer.
You'll have additional fuel to cover up lean condition or weak pump.
Ok. Gotcha Kwikford. I think with all this great help I can get her going again. I'm used to turning wrenches and having something work out in the end. This is all new to me but I'm learnin'. Not much fun, but I'm learnin'!! That EGR valve was stuck dead tight. I had to use a screwdriver and a bunch of liquid wrench to get it to pop up. Hope it's Ok. Took it off and cleaned it the best I could with carb spray cleaner and some scraping. Lots of carbon and stuff in there. But you know, I wonder if it wasn't stuck so tight because it hasn't had vacuum to move it in a while? It's just been sitting there building up carbon..But like I said, it did move fine once I got a vacuum source to it and the motor idles fine, too. So maybe it's alright..Let you know more results tomorrow and if you guys think of anything else, feel free to let me know...Thanks,

Rick
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 05:33 PM
  #36  
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Ok Guys. Here's what I did and what came up:

Plug the solenoid lines
Hook up vacuum to EVR solenoid from "Can"
Have the 02 sensor hooked up
Clear the codes again
Drive it for a bit(30 minutes)
See what codes came up .....

What came up was code 172. And only 172! But on a brighter note, the truck is running MUCH better. Some hesitation when first giving it gas, but no major bogging down. Kinda like a flat spot. Where do we go from here and what about those solenoids? Thanks for the help and it looks like we're making headway....

Rick
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 05:53 PM
  #37  
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From: Easton,Ks
172 say right side lean.
Could be a Vacuum leak, EGR Valve open at all times or the MAF Sensor.

Flat spot, maybe somebody turned the screw on the throttle body?

The solenoids are mostly for the Cat, it could get dirty in time. You do still have the Cat do you not?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 06:03 PM
  #38  
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Yes, still have the cat. Nothings been turned on the throttle body since I've had it. At least I don't think so. EGR "looks" like it's closed and the idle is pretty good. Do I need to cap off the nipples on those selonoids? Right now I have a separate vacuum line running from the can to the EVR. I plugged each end of the original black hose at the can and EVR. I did leave the lines connected to the selenoids. Is that Ok? Could it still be leaking at those selenoids? So I guess I need to start replacing parts, like the MAF and EGR valve? Thanks much,

Rick
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 06:16 PM
  #39  
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by rickdb1
Do I need to cap off the nipples on those selonoids?
It would keep stuff out of them, but you are more than likely going to replace them sooner or later.
Originally Posted by rickdb1
I did leave the lines connected to the selenoids. Is that Ok?
Yes
Originally Posted by rickdb1
Could it still be leaking at those selenoids?
No
 
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 08:15 PM
  #40  
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Any tips on finding the vacuum leaks and how would I know if the EGR valve is fuctioning properly? Trying not to spend too much if I can help it...Thanks.....

Rick
 
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