I posted a a month or so ago that my 77 F-150 4X4 351M would stall as I rode down the road, and ya'll recommended to change the ignition module, which I did, installed a new one. But I am still having the same problem. It will be driving just fine and then just die, but it always starts right back up.
About 2 months ago I posted about my brake light not working, and ya'll diagnosed it as being the directional switch, which I have not replaced yet.
My radio will also cut on and off usually if i hit a bump.
My question is, Could my stalling problem be related in any way to the faulty directional switch which is causing some electrical problems? Or what do you think the problem is since the ignition module is brand new?
I sure hate being left on the side of the road every 5 miles.

Thanks fellas, ya'll have been a huge help to me in the past.

 

A Suggestion, with the engine running, Shake and rattle the electrical wires around the starter solenoid toward the voltage regulator, toward the alternator, towards the firewall. Under the dash, around the ignition module on toward the coil and distributor. Maybe by chance you can locate the source of the electrical short.

Check the wiring, will need to peel back the electrical tape. These are the wires which run to a junction from the alternator to the starter relay and to the ignition switch. It the positive feed wire at this junction.

Another probable location would be the main positive feed wire at the ignition switch. Inspect those wire. Might need to peel back the electrical tape.

To peel back the electrical tape, use a sharp razor blade, just grazing the electrical rubber tape, and then peel the tape back.

buck

 

The short answer : No.

Ignition related.

Go over in fine detail every single wire to connector involved with the igniton system.
Especially the two that the come out of the distributor that hook to the harness.
The over to the ECM connectors like Uncle Buck stated.

So many times the cause of ignition problems is wire hanging by a thread or nearly broken off.

I found mine at the distributor plug-in connector.

 

600Nitro,

OK, this might not be helpful either...but check your negative ground wire and make sure it is not rusted out or broken. Perhaps get a new one for about $6 and see if this solves your problem.

Good Luck. Sorry....electrical problems are the hardest to diagnose and fix in my opinion.

S.

 

The truck definetly has an electrical contact short or a bad wire.

Your ignition switch gets its postive energy from the battery, which runs to the starter relay, then along the fusible link to the junction specied below, then to the firewall in the to the ignition switch (part of this positve feed powers the fuse box in the dash).

It is important, when checking for electrical short, you visually and inspect the wires by peel back the electrical tape.

Will need to verify and check each wire, for crack, burned or frayed wires when doing your inspection.

Check the wire at the ignition switch, remove the instrument panel. and remove the ignition switch (by removing the chrome outer ring on switch). Be carefull not to short out any thing at the switch while it is off. Check the main feed wires.

Use a test light to verify the positive feed wires.

Also, check the fusible links from the starter relay going to the alternator. Verify the fusible links at that area aren't burned out. Check the positive feed wire from the alternator to the starter relay, heavy guage wire, and check the junction where the fusible link join (junction). Peel off electrical tape as stated in previous post.

Verify the coil shell is grounding to the intake properly.

Buy a roll of electrical tape and a sharp razor blade.

buck

 

Do you have an electrical schematics for the ignition and engine related components?

Sometimes the schematic can help you in checking and verifing the ignition related feed wire.

 

While doing the shake and rattle test with the engine running, verify if any of the wires are getting hot to the touch.

 

If none of the above tests don't work.... you can do the Roll test.

This will then complete the: Shake Rattle & Roll..... troubleshooting technique

 

Shake, rattle and Roll, your right, turn on the radio tunes to some rock -n- roll while the engine is running, if the radio or engine cuts out, then you have isolated part of the problem. Being the radio also cut out when the engine cuts out.

 

I've wiggled every wire I can find and I can't get the truck to cut off while running. But I will try and feel the wires to see if they are hot. Thanks.

JC

 

600NITRO, what about post #5?

 

1975Ford,
Thanks for the advice, I will try those things as soon as I get my truck back and let you know, got her in the shop because of a cracked transfer case, maybe one day I'll get her runnin right.

 

Replace your ignition switch!