Need Help !! Stumped ?
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 257
Likes: 1
From: Grafton , WV
No, it wasen't raining it was dry. What dosen't make any sense to me is, after the truck starts to run rough and almost dies, you can pull the line off of the fuel pump ( tank side ) and release the air, vaccum, what ever is in there, and install it back on the pump and the truck will run fine for a couple of minutes. When it stalls, do the same thing again, and runs good, then stalls. When it is running the power is there. Don't know, but i'll try the CPS.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 716
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From: memphis
I can't see how you could create a vacuum with the filler cap off, unless it's in the mixing chamber.
Did you open the mixing chamber to inspect the two tower filters inside. When i had simular problems i could blow into the tank with 100 psi of compress air and get a day or two of riding before it would stop up again.The pickup screen was clean but the mixing chamber filters were totally trashed with some type fungus.
Do the intank and prepump mods, your truck will thank you.
You can get the transmission lines and the compressions couplers from any local parts store. There is a link somewhere that explains the DIY kit. Probably won't save much money but if you are like me , when you have time to fix it you would spend more just to get it over with.
Did you open the mixing chamber to inspect the two tower filters inside. When i had simular problems i could blow into the tank with 100 psi of compress air and get a day or two of riding before it would stop up again.The pickup screen was clean but the mixing chamber filters were totally trashed with some type fungus.
Do the intank and prepump mods, your truck will thank you.
You can get the transmission lines and the compressions couplers from any local parts store. There is a link somewhere that explains the DIY kit. Probably won't save much money but if you are like me , when you have time to fix it you would spend more just to get it over with.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 257
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From: Grafton , WV
No I didn't open the mixing chamber when I had it apart, I didn't know that there were filters in there. Now my problem makes alot more sense I just about bet that is my problem. Well I have everything it takes to do the intank mod, I know what I am going to do when I get home. lol Thanks so much for everyone's help on this matter. I will keep everyone posted. Wish me luck.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 716
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From: memphis
Quick note, there are two different sizes on the lines.
I don't remember what they are, just different.
I don't remember what they are, just different.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Grafton , WV
It's 5/16 and 3/8. I went to ITP and downloaded the procedure to do the intank mod, and also to guzzle's site and downloaded the Hutch procedure also. I had saved these links a while back when I had read about them figured I would do the mod someday, looks like today is the day. lol
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by 670johndeere
Ok, I did this the other day, I hooked a piece of fuel line on the outlet side of the fuel pump and ran it into a bucket. I cycled the key several times, about a dozen or so, and still only got about 2 gal of fuel. I held my finger over the hose to restrict flow, and the pressure increased.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Grafton , WV
Actually Tenn I did do this, and the truck ran ok at idol, it is when you are under power, when the problem starts. It also runs good at idol on the tank too. Getting ready to drop the tank i'll let you all know after bit how it went.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
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From: Middle Tennessee
Well, if you've done that properly, I'm afraid I don't think your problem is in your tank. Those in-tank mods need doing anyway. Hopefuly I am wrong and it will solve it.
Look in my gallery on how I really economized on the fuel return line diverter. A simple length of hose routed away from the float. I have a sump but that should work for the lift system too.
Now get that tank down and let us know how it goes. Hope that confounded threaded plastic ring doesn't give you the business it gave me trying to get it back on.
Look in my gallery on how I really economized on the fuel return line diverter. A simple length of hose routed away from the float. I have a sump but that should work for the lift system too.
Now get that tank down and let us know how it goes. Hope that confounded threaded plastic ring doesn't give you the business it gave me trying to get it back on.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Grafton , WV
Well guy's the verdict is in, It looks like Kwik and Hot-rodd were correct. We dropped the tank and removed the mixing chamber and walaa. We found that my truck had a cholesterol problem. It's arteries were clogged, lol, there was alot of build up in the filters. We did a bypass surgery and not it runs like a scalded dog. And it even seems a little quieter. Boy I am glad that did it, thanks to all of you that responded, you all are the one's that figured it out. This site is the best. Keep up the good work. Thanks again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Great news. I love to be wrong when it turns out like this. Just can't figure out why it didn't respond to a seperate fuel source test like you said. That should have nailed it down for you????
BTW, you did do the in-tank mods right?
BTW, you did do the in-tank mods right?
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Jun 2, 2006 at 06:59 PM.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Grafton , WV
You bet, was already there once, I jerked the guts out of it this time. Don't have to worry about them intank filters any more. I'll just change the one just ahead of the fuel pump now. Thanks again