When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok guys, I'm trying to get my headers installed in a day or two, but first I need to know a few things. The instructions say to take the bolts from the motor mount that are originally pointing towards the engine to inside the frame rails?
Is this really needed for clearanse?
Also, is there anything else I should watch out for, or anything like that?
Switching the bolt around may be so you can remove that bolt (should you need to) once the headers are installed. The instructions should tell you everything you need to know about the installation of their product. Only other advice I can give is, be sure to keep fuel hoses, power steering hoses, sparkplug wires, starter wires, etc, well away from the header. You may need to retighten the header bolts from time to time, they do tend to work loose.
I read the instructions and it said to flip the motor mount bolt, but I didn't know if it was needed for clearance or not.
Also, when installing ya'll headers, what did you use other than just the gasket, copper gasket filler, anything?
What brand headers did you wind up getting? All I used was the gasket, and I went back after a day or so and retightened the header bolts. I had to bend the brake lines that run up to the master cylinder out of the way because they were right where the header had to be, and I didn't want to overheat, boil the brake fluid. Also, do not forget to put anti-seize on those header bolts.
I went with the summit brand headers and got them ceramic coated. They look pretty good!
I thought those brake line might of been close when I was pulling the exhaust manafolds.
Also, that anti-seize you suggested, would that also help to keep the bolts from backing out(like a lock tight), or strickly to stop the bolts from seizing in place?
One more question, your gaskets sealed fine(with no leaks) with out using anything like a copper sealer?
All I used was normal fel pro gaskets and clean surfaces for it to seal to. The anti-seize will keep them from seizing in place. I never had the bolts back out on me before, just make sure you go back after driving it a couple tims and retighten them. They usually need a little snugging up.
Quick question...
How did you guys install the right(passenger)header. I can't seem to wiggle it in at all. I saw the instructions said to unbolt the motor mount and lift the engine if you have a standard transmission, but I have a auto(C6).
Any thing special needed??? I tried top and bottom, anything...
I understand your frustration. I went through the same thing this weekend.
Mine were the Hedman Elites going on a '74 360 auto C6.
Remove the starter
Jack up the motor and get the mount out of the way (the mount is the problem).
Put them in from the bottom. It's like working on a puzzle but they will get there.
While the headers are in the general location and before you lower the motor put the starter back on (it's easier this way than after you lower the motor).
It took me all weekend. One of my biggest problems was that the header holes did not line up on 3 holes on the driver side and on two on the passenger side. Had to remove them again and drill them out. What a PITA! that was.
Hope you have smooth sailing with the rest of your install. Good luck!
scottlane, I know what you mean. My 77 has a 302 too, and the engine bay looks empty compared to my 79 w/400.
I got them in after jacking up the frame w/ a highlift jack, and it gave me just enough room to get them in, after pushing, hitting, and wiggiling.
How did you tighten the bolts after installing the headers? Center to out? And which gasket did you use(paper w/ headers, or special copper or aluminum gaskets)?
I had a 70 w/460 headers, ps, pb - that was tight.
Center to out after snugging all of them first. i am sure I will need to snug them again after a few rides. I used the paper gasket that Hedman furnished with the headers. The last copper gasket I used was fried.
I rerouted my starter cable and will bring my truck in on Wed to have my exhaust hooked back up. I'll know how good of a job I did then.
It's really easy if the headers go in with the motor even with my A/C box and a 390. Still not looking forward to the first starter change though.
I used Remflex header gaskets the second time on the advice of the guy at my muffler shop. NO LEAKS...NO RETIGHTENING (I tried twice the bolts didn't move)
The guys at the muffler shop had to modify the collectors to clear my C6 but the headers themselves were fine. Watch the brake lines for sure!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.