what that d60 out of?

 

i could have sworn that i answered you like the day after you asked me this but i quess not, it is out of a 97 F-250 4x4, my uncle bought my old 79 bronco from me a while back, i would try to buy it back (motor is messed up, needs a feul pump or something) but i dont know if dana 44 is worth all the trouble, i already have 44's in it now, dont 44's start to break with anything bigger than 35's or 36's, also arent they pretty weak when it comes to lockers?? i need to talk to someone who knows what they are talking about with axles, i really dont know sh(t about them

 

Ive been searching and just about everything ive found says 97 f250s had sterling 10.25 rear axles. the 10.25 is pretty much bolt in for out broncos from what i understand. a solid d44 axle would be an upgrade over the ttb44 thats in there right now. pretty much 35s are the limits for both, but depends how hard you beat on it. If you have 35s and a locker your prolly goin to break axle shafts like crazy.

 

i went back there behind hunters cove this weekend, kinda sucked most of the mud i saw last week dried up so. my tahoe is broke down, my right rear brake caliper seized up for some reason and then the bolts holding it to the axle snapped, the inside of my classic 2 rim is pretty tore up i dont know if its goin to balance right now. So i got to replace the caliper and rotor, maybe rim. I new i shouldnt have bought a chebby

 

im checking on the axle, the guy knows his stuff pretty well, if he says its a dana, then its probally a dana, i will have to check on some other things too, i would love to hear that my uncle wants to et rid of the 79 bronc, the body is in ****ty shape so i would never rebuild it, it would put me way under, but i would like to get the axles off of it, then i can at least get a good lift on the truck, you can mod the heck out of those things, with out spending 1000s i wonder if i could upgrade that 44 to were it would hold a locker and bigger wheels???

 

Dang that sucks. about your brake breaking your axle. I was sick all weekend, so i didnt do anything.

Yeah, a d44 will hold around a 35inch tire unless you wheel it really hard.

 

not so much broke the axle but broke off in the axle, im going to have to us an ez out to get the broken bolts out. either way its not goin to be fun.

Its mainly going to be the axle shafts that are weaker, theyre smaller in diameter than a 1 ton axle, but if you upgrade to cromoly shafts that will help a lot,

 

hey yall do me a favor, i live in fort walton beach so i dont really see to many older 4bys, if you see something let me know, i will be in town this weekend, i will leave after work the day after tomorrow, (thrus) i need to put a seal in my rear somewhere, i dont know what is leaking exactly, but i want to fix it so i can wheel a little, any help???

 

dudes, seriously, ok could solid axles be any more freakin confusing??? ok quick breif, the back axle i am buying is a sterling 10.25 not a dana 60, which is awesome because the 10.25 has the VSS in it and should plug right up, but i tried reading up on front axles but have no clue when it comes to offsets, setups, i am so lost with a front axle choice, at least i dont have to do the swap all at once, it would be nice, but i already have a lift kit for the standard front setup, so i can put the new rear on and lift it then just throw the lift on the front and take my time to find the correct front, yall know anything about this *****??? i know i want a dana 60, oh well, later bro's

 

find where its leaking, if its by the wheel its an axle seal. go get a new one from the parts store, i think theyre like 6 bucks, and some rtv sealant. jack it up pull the wheel off where its leaking, then you have to take the diff cover off and drain all the fluid. Youll need to pull the pinion shaft lockpin, the pinion shaft is a metal rod thing that runs between all the gears inside the carrier, youll see what im talking about when you get in there. anyways, the lockpin is a screw that is in the carrier at one end of the pinion shaft. once you get this out push the axle shaft in towards the diff, you should see a c-clip that slides over the end of the shaft and holds it in the axle, pull that out and then the axle should slide right out. now at the end of the axle tube youll see the axle seal, use something to pop it out, screwdriver, crowbar, something. it might take a little force but itll come out. now put the new one in, making sure it goes in straight. put a peice of wood or something over it and tap with a hammer til its all the way in. slide axle shaft back in and put everthing in the diff back together the way it came out. Now use a scraper and or some fine sandpaper to clean the old gasket off where the diff cover mounts,and the cover itself. run a bead of that rtv sealant on the cover, make sure its a continous bead so theres no leaks. put the cover on and evenly tighten down on the bolts. I think the sealant says you need to let it cure overnight or something so i would let it set for a while so it cures good.

 

ohh while your at the auto parts store pick up a book for broncos, itll help you picture what im talking about

 

i believe the axles that work for the front are out of 78-79 broncos f150,250, both the dana 44 and 60 where coilsprung like our front axles. i would go ahead and install the lift that you have, bc most of the parts you use for that will work for a dana44/60 swap. Id say put the lift on wheel it hard till something breaks then uprgrade the axle afterward, you know what they say, if it aint broke dont fix it

 

ohh also youll need about five quarts of gear lube to fill the diff back up.

 

i dont know if i really want to mess with all that, i might do it on base, we have a shop on base, free tools, free advise, help if you need it, so i will see when i get my bronc down here

 

It really isnt too bad, i prolly over complicated it. I thought i was getting in over my head when i heard start pulling stuff out of the diff, but if you get a book and can see some pictures of the stuff in there itll make a lot more sense. and once you get the diff cover off and can look how things work it really isnt too tuff to figure out.