This a 1990 Bronco XLT automatic 302 (5.0). When it is first started it automatically idles a bit high, I believe this is normal. But after a few seconds it dies unless I can push on the gas once or twice. After that it idles fine.
In the morning it has plenty of get up ad go I barley have to press on the pedal to go. But when it warms up it stumbles unless I push the gas more then half way. This slowley getting worse. and now it has started idleing higher, Right around 1000 to 1300 after it is warm and this does not happen all the time.
Any Help would be great,
Thank you
Eric

 

Pull the EEC-IV computer codes first. This will save you a lot of guesswork, time and money. A code reader or a paperclip will let you pull codes. The latter is of course the less expensive method. Check out a Haynes service manual or www.fordfuelinjection.com for more details. It could just be dirt and soot build-up in the throttle body idle passages but its best to get the codes first. Check for vacuum leaks as well.

 

Sorry I forgot to mention . I pulled the codes already and got nothing

 

Got nothing as in... code 11? Or got nothing as in couldn't read the codes?

If you got code 11's, I would take the throttle body off and clean it good with a stiff brush and a parts cleaner solvent. Also soak the IAC really good.

 

Hey Gixxed,

I had a similiar problem with my '89. It cleared up though once I replaced my fuel filter. I also checked my timing and replaced the distributor cap at the same time so any one of the three might have done it.

 

Thanks, I was thinking about the Filter today. I do not think it has ever been replaced. I will try that

 

((((BUMP))))Just wondering if anybody has anything else. Just seems to lose power when it is warmed up

 

Ok Not the Fuel Filter. Now it is when you press on the gas it just sits and thinks about going then starts to go. The warmer the Engine is the worse it becomes. Sometimes Giving it alot of gas then letting off just a little helps.
No Vacuum leaks Had that checked. I will try cleaning the throttle body. Still just wondering if anybody has had this problem before and fixxed it

 

check fuel pressure at the rail. pull vac line off of FPR to see if gas is present. have you pulled any plugs to see how they look? when was it tuned up last and timing checked with spout connector removed

 

Did you only do the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) test, or did you go on to the Key On Engine Running (KOER) test as well? If not you still need to do the KOER test.

 

Beat me to it, masseysbronco.

The tip-in hesitation is most commonly fuel-related but can be throttle valve coking and/or ECT sensor troubles.

The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor can still be returning what the computer believes is an accurate reading (within predetermined voltage parameters) but if its sticking or has a dead spot, the computer will continue to "think" the truck is still cold even after it has warmed up. (Actually its a racing trick to fool the computer by replacing the ECT sensor with a fixed-value resistor so the system dumps more fuel into the engine even though the engine has warmed up...most who do this, disconnect the O2 sensor as well so the computer doesn't know the difference. Its NOT a recommended pratice in street-driven vehicles!) If you have exhausted all other options, you might try actually taking a resistance reading of the ECT with the truck "dead cold" and at "operating temperature". Dead cold the resistance value should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 35,000-45,000 ohms (this number can be much higher if the ambient air temp is below 70*F). At operating temp. the resistance should be about 2,000-2500 ohms (this number can be much lower if the engine is running hot, say 230-250*F).

Please not that this particular ECT sensor issue will most likely NOT yield any fault codes in the computer. Its a rather rare occurance as well but I mention it in the event you run out of options.

 

I did do both engine on and engine off and nothing. I willtry some more of these suggestions and let everyone know if they Help
Thank you again everyone for your help

 

the answer to your problem is so simple that any body who knows what they are doing can not answer it. change the ignition module and then send me a thank you note

 

I would but it is already new. had that done when it actually went bad a few months ago. Acted totally differant. Sorry that I cannot Thank you

 

I did have a New Problem Arise yesturday....... It would start then die over and over enen after pumping the gas a couple times. So I double pedaled it till it warmed up then we were back to the present normal. Well I grabbed my reader and brought it to work with me. I pulled 3 codes. (finally a Code to grab) On for the TPS, ECT, and the Fuel Pump Relay?
Last Night I replaced the ECT and The TPS . So Far it does run Better But I will find out more when I leave for work....