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Hey guys....my 99 f350 with 170K miles usually runs great, but with the heat of summer around the corner i am having a problem. I run the ac on max and when the truck idles or in low gear, i get hot air out of the vents. I already installed the cutoff valve to the heater core. What could be going out? I did notice my truck temp gets a bit high so i already ordered the 203 thermostat. Can a bad thermostat cause ac failures? Any ideas are appreciated.
Sounds like your gonna have to redo the a/c. One thing I have learned about fords, the only way to get the a/c working right again is to replace EVERYTHING. I went through mine at 155k. I didnt want to mess with it and just felt it was safer to have the stealership do it. Cost me $800 but the sucker is cold now.
On a side note, most people forget that when its 100+ out and you are stuck in traffic, your a/c is not really gonna work well.
I installed a manual cut off valve and have yet to have any problems with overheating.
Wolftan, does your compressor cycle on and off a lot? You might just needs a shot of freon. If you have some gauges, or know someone who does, check it out. stealership charges $35 to diagnose, but they will still tell you it all needs to be replaced and then some.
I don't have my truck available right now or I could verify this for you. Most systems will have a sight glass and it's a good place to look for freon content. With the compressor on, the fluid should be clear (like water) if it's milky or has bubbles, you're low on freon.
I started having problems with my ac. Drew all freon out and fill with new but no difference.
Ac jest quits at times but works most times.
I order an orifice tube (@15.00), accumulator ($75.00) and compressor ($265.00) from dealer.
You have to buy all three parts in order to get a year warranty on parts in case of failure. Also will be removing the condensor to clean and strighten the fins.
gseeders
Wolftan, Should be sticker directly in front of radiator fill cap, on rad. support. My early '99 uses 134. Almost sure yours does too. I think freon was outlawed by this time. Carroll
Check the pressure switch on the accumulator. They go bad. My A/C would work sometimes and then not work. Charge was fine but pressure switch was bad. If compressor is not working but charge is fine, jump out the pressure switch and see if the compressor clutch locks up. All you have to do is remove the connector from the pressure switch and jump the 2 terminals in the connector with a wire. You will have to evacuate the freon to change the pressure switch.
Typically you convert a system from R-12 to 134a. I really wouldn't mix the two of the them. R-12 is too expensive anyway. R-12 systems operate at lower pressures than 134a. That could be a benefit but I don't think having R-12 in a system designed for 134a. There are R-12 susbstitues on the market but I still don't see any reason for putting R-12 in.
Typically you convert a system from R-12 to 134a. I really wouldn't mix the two of the them. R-12 is too expensive anyway. R-12 systems operate at lower pressures than 134a. That could be a benefit but I don't think having R-12 in a system designed for 134a. There are R-12 susbstitues on the market but I still don't see any reason for putting R-12 in.
All of my R-12 systems cool much better than any vehicle with 134a that I own. I've got an 85 6.9 dsl that blows ice out of the vents.
Well i bought more 134 and put in a whole can...raised the pressure to about 40psi from 30psi.....but didn't appear to make a difference.....still felt hot air at one point, but just for about 20 seconds...then cold the rest of the time....not sure what else it could be. Shouldn't i hear a click or something when the compressor kicks on? Couldn't really tell when it did kick on.