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Old May 23, 2006 | 08:37 PM
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compression numbers ?

What is the typical psi of a compression test on a rebuilt motor. I picked up a old beat up truck for the motor to replace mine. Got the motor switched out and it runs as good as rebuilt motor. Did a compression test today to check out the motor and got 150 to 160 psi on all cylinders. On the first revolution the needle goes between 100 and 120. I'm thinking this motor is going to last me a while. Have a couple of small vacuum leakes to track down and a little carb work but that won't take long.
 
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Old May 24, 2006 | 07:47 AM
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The psi will depend on a few things: 1)compression ratio, 2)piston ring seal, and 3)valve seal. Generally, mechs look for even compression, with not more than about 10% difference between cylinders. If you are in the 150-160 range, you should be fine and are in the ballpark with average compression ratios.
tom
 
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Old May 24, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger GT2
I'm thinking this motor is going to last me a while.
i agree with you on that. compression sounds just about right. also, first pump jumping up to 100 is a good sign.
chris
 
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Old May 24, 2006 | 06:40 PM
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You have a long, long way to go with that motor.
 
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Old May 24, 2006 | 07:46 PM
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Thats what I'm hopeing for is that it last me a long time. I feel like I got a rebuilt motor for $150 and spare parts to boot.
 
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Old May 24, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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My old engine was at 170PSI, so you are still in real good shape.

I do wonder why they just go by the 10% rule. As the engine wears, if it wears evenly, the compression will drop evenly in all cylinders. An engine that puts out 60PSI is probably not that mechanically sound even if they are all within 10%.

However, I do understand that it isn't a very scientific method of determining wear and has a lot of factors involved, including a portion of human error, so that is probably why it isn't used.
 
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Old May 24, 2006 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 79F150EFI
I do wonder why they just go by the 10% rule. As the engine wears, if it wears evenly, the compression will drop evenly in all cylinders. An engine that puts out 60PSI is probably not that mechanically sound even if they are all within 10%. .
If an engine that normally would be at 150 psi was reading 60 all the way across it would probably be a timing gear problem. If it were from wear, it would be smoking and knocking so bad you wouldn't need a compression test.

On the other hand, ten percent is generous for a variation. But mechanics will pay more attention to variation than the actual number because the pressure will vary due to differences in compression ratio or cam grind from one year to the next, even in the same engine type. Also, owners may have made changes that will affect the numbers as well. (Not to mention variations in compression testers.)
 
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Old May 25, 2006 | 06:24 AM
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Not to mention altitude and starter motor and battery and .... variations, which would make absolute numbers totally untranslatable to the real world.
At 60psi, you would get more power out of the starter motor. Maybe. But if you got it going, it would keep spinning when you shut off the ignition.
tom
 
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Old May 25, 2006 | 06:52 AM
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Keep in mind, sticking a vacuum gauge on it will readily tell you if you have a cylinder or two out of line....the needle will blip down. Quick and cheap method.
 
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Old May 25, 2006 | 04:04 PM
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Another consideration is if that old engine increases its compression reading over time, then there's carbon build up.
 
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