Truck hard start when when cold
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
I have the same exact problem starting my rig. The wts light wont stay on for more than maybe 3 seconds in the winter time here. Its 20 degrees out! I had this problem last night when I parked my truck for about 4 hours. 3rd crank she started right up.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
Dave 7.3 It sounds like either controler/relay or several glow plugs going out. if started rough when you did get it started then glow plugs. I would change as a set if more than one gone bad. Might try the adding ground wire idea first to controler/relay. I found it by accident on mine.
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; Oct 11, 2006 at 11:14 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
I got the truck over a year ago and I had the GP system checked about 6 months ago. Only one GP was in need of replacing. I was also wondering if you could clarify that ground wire idea a bit. I kinda have a rough idea but I don't wanta screw it up. Thanks.
-Dave
-Dave
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 3
From: Ladner, British Columbia
Dave,
If you had only the bad glowplug replaced your chances of another plug failing in very short order are pretty good. Here is the reason why: All plugs are feed in parallel and usually putting in a new plug changes the system resistance which may cause other plugs to get more or less current which then may cause them to fail. I have seen new plugs also fail as they typically have the lowest resistance and get the lions share of the current distribution.
All that said,
When you had you glowplugs in for a while and suddenly one burns out the best advise I can give you is to change to all new plugs at the same time. This way you start with the best current distribution between plugs and have the best chance at making eight plugs work synergy under parallel operation.
You may want to go back and re-check your glow plugs. If your wait to start light only comes on for 3 seconds and your GP is good then you most likely are dealing with another burn plug or two possibly that burn after the last burnt plug was replaced.
In the following thread I describe a quick way to check the glow plugs for do it yourselfers:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...=1#post3548618
Best of luck......
Seb......
If you had only the bad glowplug replaced your chances of another plug failing in very short order are pretty good. Here is the reason why: All plugs are feed in parallel and usually putting in a new plug changes the system resistance which may cause other plugs to get more or less current which then may cause them to fail. I have seen new plugs also fail as they typically have the lowest resistance and get the lions share of the current distribution.
All that said,
When you had you glowplugs in for a while and suddenly one burns out the best advise I can give you is to change to all new plugs at the same time. This way you start with the best current distribution between plugs and have the best chance at making eight plugs work synergy under parallel operation.
You may want to go back and re-check your glow plugs. If your wait to start light only comes on for 3 seconds and your GP is good then you most likely are dealing with another burn plug or two possibly that burn after the last burnt plug was replaced.
In the following thread I describe a quick way to check the glow plugs for do it yourselfers:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...=1#post3548618
Best of luck......
Seb......
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
Originally Posted by Dave7.3
I was also wondering if you could clarify that ground wire idea a bit. I kinda have a rough idea but I don't wanta screw it up. Thanks.
-Dave
-Dave
Dave S. (moderator) I could use a picture here (you have a great one)
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
Originally Posted by bigredtruckmi
No problem. Take the negative cable off both batteries. take the cover off the controler/relay for glow plugs on top of engine. Look for a wire going to a bolt which holds down the controler/relay to the engine. This will be the ground. remove bolt and wire. Add a wire to the bolt (at least the same size as running to the relay) and reattach relay ground wire and bolt with added wire. Attach neg battery cables. Then attach the extra wire from controler/relay to battery. Reason for this is that corrosion underneath the controler/relay prevents a good ground preventing proper operation.
Dave S. (moderator) I could use a picture here (you have a great one)
Dave S. (moderator) I could use a picture here (you have a great one)
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
Yes hook the black wire back where it was - only add another wire to the same bolt and run that to the ground (-) side of battery. Use a wire larger than the black one. This will make it so you have an excellent ground. But you still need to have the ground (black wire) onto the motor thru the bolt.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
New straight out of the box never installed or modified.
This is an 87 or later glow plur relay and controller.
I actually do not have a picture of my relay in my gallery, those are other users that had trouble with theirs.
But mine is modified for manual control.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
New straight out of the box never installed or modified.
This is an 87 or later glow plur relay and controller.
I actually do not have a picture of my relay in my gallery, those are other users that had trouble with theirs.
But mine is modified for manual control.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
This is a part about 2 years old, I have one off an 87 motor that is way different visually, but still the same for operation.
They are usually grounded through the mounting bolts
.
Several members have reported they ran a ground wire from the bolt to the negative terminal of the battery and eliminated controller problems.
I think the old one I have still had a grounding wire, I can not remember.
They are usually grounded through the mounting bolts
.
Several members have reported they ran a ground wire from the bolt to the negative terminal of the battery and eliminated controller problems.
I think the old one I have still had a grounding wire, I can not remember.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
I think my relay is setup a little different from that picture. I looked again this evening and it has a green wire that runs back into the engine harness and a black wire with a connector in the middle that attaches to the fender. I'm still a little confused here so I'll get a picture loaded up in the morning.
-Dave
-Dave
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
The black wire hooked to the fender--- someone has moved the ground wire-- if that wire doesn't hook to the bolt that holds down the relay attach it there then extend it to the (-) negative terminal of the battery.
Be sure to clean all points of contact so it has metal to metal contact. Very important.
Apparently it has had the "no ground" problem before.
Be sure to clean all points of contact so it has metal to metal contact. Very important.
Apparently it has had the "no ground" problem before.
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; Oct 15, 2006 at 05:50 AM.