Truck Trouble
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From: Carterville, IL
Truck Trouble
Last night my truck started jerkin on low RPM's under a load, I thought it was the Tranny. Went into town and came back after I noticed the engine was miss-firin. On the way back it just died all of a sudden up a hill...still had battery power but it would start. I thought it was the fuel pump as I couldn't hear it whine up when I turned the key on. I called 2 Chevy friends and they brought their trucks and strap (hopin to pull me home in shame). I check every fuse/relay for the fuel system until I check the PCM fuse for the hell of it....it was blown.....whoo hoo a CLUE ! The only way to blow a PCM fuse is to arc wires.....I had a jerry rigged Crankshap connector I designed w/ electrical tape, LOL....they must've touched each other finally after the tape melted and blown the fuse.....completely disabling the computer allowing no rpm reading or the pump to come on. I changed the fuse and started talkin **** to my friends about how she was the bestest truck ever and she started right up, haha. I limped her home leadin the pack but now I got the check engine light on....I suspect a coil pack went bad or is loose again, quick fix later on today.
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From: Carterville, IL
OOPS...I meant CrankShaft Sensor Connector. I drove the truck out to town to get the Trouble Codes read and it died on me a couple minutes after I took off. I checked and the PCM 30amp fuse was blown again. I checked the Sensor Wires and they were still completely covered so I put in another fuse and it blew 2 seconds after I turned the key on w/out tryin to start it. Put in another fuse and started it but still blew 2 seconds after. No matter what it will blow the right fuse 2 seconds after the key in turned on. I had a good sensor connector on a spare wiring harness and I hooked it up correctly to the wires and plugged it in....started it but still blew another fuse over and over. Could my CrankShaft Positioning Sensor be fried since the 2 leads arc-ed out more than a few times ? I have a spare sensor that I'm thinkin of puttin in tonight...I gotta take off the belt and A/C Compressor to get to it though, dang. Also last night when we thought it was the fuel pump I pushed the FUEL RESET switch located under the passenger side of the dash and the button went down, this shuts off the fuel pump. The button is still down but shouldn't it be popped back out ?
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I replied to your other thread also.... but need to confirm, do you have a 7.3L PSD? Any other truck info would be helpful, too. I have a hunch that your fuel bowl heater may be shorted... but would like to confirm that you have a 7.3 first...
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From: Carterville, IL
I found the Short Circuit Problem. Wiring Harness Connector on the motor had a wire touching a hot line off the power steering box. Wire was cooked and arced out....I replaced the small section and re-covered and secured it away from the line w/ a zip tie. Truck starts fine now and doesn't blow fuses. Altough it still has a miss I need to track down which cylinder it is. I tried the (all the way around) test w/ the coil packs a injector plugs w/ no sucess. The check engine light hasn't come on yet cuz I had the battery disconnected for so long so I will let her run a while later today to see if it comes on then I can get the code on the mis fire cylinder #.
Last edited by devildog_0431; May 23, 2006 at 05:12 PM.
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Nice job finding the shorted wire problem. 
It is similar to the fuel bowl heater shorting on some 7.3s, which blows that fuse, which is also the fuse for the PCM... leading to a no-start (which acts like a bad CPS) but also no Wait to Start light.
It is similar to the fuel bowl heater shorting on some 7.3s, which blows that fuse, which is also the fuse for the PCM... leading to a no-start (which acts like a bad CPS) but also no Wait to Start light.
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From: Carterville, IL
Check engine light finally came on today. Trouble Code 0300 (Multiple Cyliner Misfires)...oh come on ! Tell which ones ! I did the (All the way around unpluggin) routine test again and found coil packs 2 and 4 didn't have any change to them. I changed them out w/ my spare coils and shazammm ! Trucks runs great again, no misfires.
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From: Carterville, IL
The spare coils I used were off My 99 V-10 that I pulled about 4 months ago. The coils on the motor were the new style MotorCrafts for the '00 V-10 I put in. Only diffence is the 5000 oHM resistor placement in the coil spring under the boot. I just washed the truck over the weekend and I used a hose w/out a sprayer so alot of water ran off the windshield under the hood so I'm guessing some water got past the boots and fried the coils. When I pulled those 2 coils they had rusty stains at the bottom. Coils for this truck cost about $150 each depending where you get them so I saved myself $300 by saving my old coils, cuz I knew I would need them one day. I also kept the thermastat, cam, crankshaft, and TPS sensors. And IAC and EGR Solenoids off the old motor, save some $$$ some day.
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