I have the 72 power disc brake conversion finished except for one thing....brake lines. The flex lines are not long enough...even when I jack the front end up to simulate it sitting on the tires...those flex lines just aren't quite long enough for my comfort. They do fit with the suspension raised, but just seem too tight. I have tried switching the calipers and lines in every combination , no luck.
The calipers are mounted with the bleeder screw facing the rear and the banjo bolt up and forward, but for the line to fit properly it has to bolt on with the line running forward, and by the time it wraps back around it barely reaches. If you swap the side the calipers are on, the banjo bolt is way at the bottom.
I am putting the banjo fitting with the offset area at the end face down...
Going to go get longer lines made tomorrow unless someone can tell me what obvious thing I missed.....

 

Charles, Did you buy your donor and bring it home, if yes you can get the two different front lines and mounting bracket that will work off of it, if not . The little things get you everytime.
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Thought I would answer my own question in case someone runs across the same problem. For what ever reason, and I'm not sure why...the stock hoses I bought at autozone for a 73 Ford F100 were not quite long enough for my 72 disc brake conversion. And yes, I didn't have the calipers on upside down. They barely reached, and I did not feel comfortable with the length. So, today I found a solution.
I purchased brake line fittings made by AFCO designed for a race car, and stainless steel lines. I used stainless steel 24 inch lines(wanted them to be more than long enough to reach with the suspension unsupported) with AN 4 ends.
To connect to the caliper I used a 3/8 Banjo bolt Adapter (AFC40257)($8.59 each) with a new 3/8 Banjo bolt (AFC40258)($8.95 each). I replaced the banjo bolt because there is a slight difference in the feed ring on the bolt that may have been a problem. These are listed for a GM vehicle but worked on the truck with one slight modification....I had to grind a small amount (1/8") from the caliper to allow room for the hose to screw all the way.
To connect to the brake line I used a chassis mount (AFC40276)($4.79 each) I had to grind a small flat area on one side of the chassis mount to allow it to fit in the "D" shaped hole in the bracket. You could just as easily drill the hole out round.
The steel braided line (GOO310424) is a 4AN straight to 4AN straight fitting. They cost 11.95 per line.
The prices I am quoting are from Smiley's Racing Products, local to me but they have a website... www.smileysracing.com.
The whole thing took about an hour...maybe less, and man it looks good, not to mention the stainless line is better than stock rubber hose. I haven't bled the lines and taken the truck out for a test drive yet....hopefully that will be tomorrow and if there are any problems I will be sure to pass them along.

 

cpegram , you have demonstrated a Very important principle here , that being , if it doesn't fit 'zactly like dat oldun'---Innoviate---use your imagination , use your grinder , use this website , call your ex-wife the mechanic , be creative----certain types of parts lend themselves to adaptation and maybe a better solution than the origional part that came on the vehicle when it came off the assembly line---fd :-X11

 

Sorry I didn't see your post earlier. When I did my conversion. I used the brackets from the donor truck and relocated them to the same position as they were on the donor.

Mike

 

I considered relocating the brackets as a second alternative to what I did...decided not to because I had already painted the frame and bracket area and moving the bracket would involve drilling out the rivets that hold the bracket, drilling new holes in the frame..sanding and painting the frame and bracket (which are painted now with a urethane single stage paint that is difficult to work with)....and the last thing...the stainless lines really ROCK....
I think in retrospect, if I had considered moving the brackets before I painted the frame I probably would have done that...just fell victim to buying the parts at a junkyard and not having enough foresight to look at the bracket location....
But hey...it does look sharp so no harm no foul....LOL:7

 

Charles, I am glad to hear that you made it work, and are happy. We recommend using donor parts because 10 years from now if you need replacement parts you can step up to the counter of your favorite parts house and order Ford truck parts that should always be in stock. Should you get tired of this project and just have to have another, the next fellow will be able to get parts too. There is a current post of someone needing help changing points, so readers come here with all levels of skill.

I always recommend buying your donor truck, and doing your pre planning, because as I posted earlier here, The little things get you everytime.
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John

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[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member since 01 01

[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NCFTO] North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group

In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.