dont hear fuel pump
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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i get voltage at the eec relay but i do not get any voltage at the pump. also when i tested for ground at the pump conector, i disconected the connector from the pump and tested the wires. i got ground for both
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Well thats not good. Check for voltage on the red wire at the injectors or EGR solenoid. If theres no voltage on those either the fuse link is probably blown & theres a short in the wiring somewhere.
The red wire at the EEC relay is wired to the fuse link & the fuse link is wired to the splice. Trace the wire to the fuse link & tug on both ends, if you can stretch the fuse link its blown.
The red wire at the EEC relay is wired to the fuse link & the fuse link is wired to the splice. Trace the wire to the fuse link & tug on both ends, if you can stretch the fuse link its blown.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
No fuse link, thats interesting.
The only wiring diagrams I have for an 86 is the Haynes manual.
For my 87, i have the MUCH better Ford factory wiring diagrams which shows a different setup: Fuse link/EEC relay/splice.
Maybe yours is wired the same as my 87.
Strange that you have voltage at the splice but not at the injectors or EGR??? Maybe the splice is coming apart?
I'll post a link in a minute.
Edit Use the negative post on the battery for your ground & try this simple little test to see if the pumps will run. See this link www.superhighoutput.com/tech_view.php?id=5
The only wiring diagrams I have for an 86 is the Haynes manual.
For my 87, i have the MUCH better Ford factory wiring diagrams which shows a different setup: Fuse link/EEC relay/splice.
Maybe yours is wired the same as my 87.
Strange that you have voltage at the splice but not at the injectors or EGR??? Maybe the splice is coming apart?
I'll post a link in a minute.
Edit Use the negative post on the battery for your ground & try this simple little test to see if the pumps will run. See this link www.superhighoutput.com/tech_view.php?id=5
Last edited by 87 XLT; May 21, 2006 at 12:14 PM.
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Junior User
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im working off of the haynes manual too which isnt the greatest but you know. i was looking at the 87 diagram and it seems to be wired just like it. i found all the splices in every wire and tommorrow im gonna solder them because some look like they need it and i checked all the fusible links and they are fine. right now im baffled. this is my daily driver and its been down 5 days now. i appreciate all the help so far. i am getting no power to the fuel pump. i followed the wire to the relay and still nothing. there is no voltage at either wire to the inertia switch.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
The EEC relay is wired to the ignition switch, turn the key to run the relay closes & puts 12 volts on the red wire at the EEC relay.
Since you do see that 12 volts the ignition switch and EEC relay are working fine.
Looks like a problem beween the EEC relay & the splice.
Good idea, checking any splices.
Since you do see that 12 volts the ignition switch and EEC relay are working fine.
Looks like a problem beween the EEC relay & the splice.
Good idea, checking any splices.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 299
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From: South Texas
I had a pretty similar problem to yours recently. My problems were a bad ignition switch and a blown fusible link. You might want to search out the thread 'Ignition Woes' it has some good information in it.
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Junior User
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IMPROVEMENT!! i replaced the eec relay and put a jumper wire between the fuel pump test connector and ground and the truck fired up. Now it runs like crap but runs. any suggestions on where i should go next
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,516
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Progress is GOOD, glad to hear it's running, sort of. To close the pump relay the computer grounds the voltage on tan/light green.
This is what you are doing when you ground the self test connector which splices into the tan/light green wire.
Take a look at that splice on the tan/light green.
If that splice & the tan/light green wire looks OK, take a couple of minutes to pull the codes.
This is what you are doing when you ground the self test connector which splices into the tan/light green wire.
Take a look at that splice on the tan/light green.
If that splice & the tan/light green wire looks OK, take a couple of minutes to pull the codes.
Last edited by 87 XLT; May 21, 2006 at 09:03 PM.
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Junior User
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all i have at the moment is a test light and i had the dash apart the other day and there is no light bulb where the check engine light is supposed to be its closed up so how would i go about checking codes?