ok so I bought one injector seal kit from the stealership (only thing open this late on weekend). cost like 19 and change including tax (like 6.35 b4 tax at injector shop, guess where i'll be shopping). also needed to lookup a e-brake part for the stang while there. anywho, in the middle of tearing the thing apart. lots of oil in the turbo pipe on left side. turbo shaft feels tight, so good news there. may just do a WW to replace the eat up compressor wheel. I'm think #8 injector is my culprit, so i'll check it and put a seal kit in it if I find oil leak. think I could pull GP on #8 and see if I have oil? also, is it possible for the injector itself to leak oil? I'm doing this kinda haphazardly. only want to purchase one seal kit right now, till paycheck from new job I'm starting kicks in. then I'll do the whole lot. most likely, if one's gone, the others aren't far behind. any tips on preventing hydrostatic locking would be appreciated. Thanks
Chad

 

Kwikk has done an excellent writup on that as have a few others. Do a search or stand by, one of them will help you.

BTW Chad, have you dismissed the idea of doing that compression check?

 

haven't dismissed the idea, just don't have a guage yet and still want a running truck. I'll do a compression check when I can order a guage. almost no one in this town carries diesel parts or acc. I found one online cheap (i know i know, but I hope it's a one time shot). but will have to order it with new paycheck. new job is kinda expecting me to have a working truck, on top of all this, the stang needs cooling system work, it started to overheat today (we hit triple digits), it's got new thermostat and cooling fan motor, so i'll have to dig in to it, as well as replace e-brake cable, just trying to get some vehicles to go from point a to b. but i do want to do a compression check to see how bad off the motor is, but after inspecting turbo I think I'm in better shape than I thought I was. If i can get it to stop smoking with some seals, I'll be happy. I don't think current round of problems are resulting from compression, but I do want to check it, which is why I mentioned it. I remember seeing kwik's article on injectors. He removed the oil from the cylinders when it spilled with some sort of suction device if i remember right. If I pull drain plugs for oil rail to help prevent it, will those rails have to be primed?
Chad

 

Man, both vehicles acting up. If it weren't for bad luck.....wouldn't be any.

That sucking the cylinders out suggestion was my idea if I recall, after the fact. Kwikk said he just proceeded expeditiously and then pushed the fluids out turning over the engine if memory servesl. So far he's motoring happily.

As for the priming of the HPO rails, I don't know how long that could take. I know that air driving the injectors will perform poorly. That's why on the same thread that I suggested filling the oil rails with fresh oil through one of the plugs prior to restart. That should alleviate any concerns there. Of course if your HPOP is not up to speed, none of this will matter.

 

yeah kinda hard to test hpop, but the manner and speed it took for this failure leads me to wanna do this seal kit, especially with #8 running cold. too much oil inhibiting combustion and dropping hpop pressure is my thought. could be wrong wouldn't be first time. I've got the valve cover off, I'm trying to pull the injector after removing oil diverter spout and shoulder bolts. that thing is in there. I don't have anything to suck out oil, so I guess I'll use the start trigger I have to turn over engine with injector removed or something, i'll figure it out, need to find that thread from kwik and see if he mentions tools used to pull injector, think it got posted in mods sticky. still workin, thanks for the help guys, and keep it coming.
Chad

 

btw, when I pulled foward hpo rail plug, it just oozed, not much volume getting drained out. Is that a normal thing or sign of very little oil in rail. only time truck ran today was to pull from driveway to carport to do work. engine didn't even get warm.
Chad

 

ok so leave it to the newbie to get drenched in oil. tonight gave me a whole new respect for the compression these diesels build. i used my under hood starter trigger hooked to the fender solenoid to "kick" the engine over and eject the oil in cylinder. WRONG!!!! it came out so hard that it covered the left side of the engine bay, me, my carport, and the end wall of the carport with oil. that wall is 13ft from origin, in front of vehicle. just dub me the native "window licker" for being that dumb. got the injector back in though after cycling the engine a little bit with the starter to ensure that the oil is gone, hope it was enough. will turn it over before putting the VC back on, just in case I have to remove it again. seems like the middle o-ring seal just wasn't up to snuff, and there was only one in a gap big enough for two. seal was intact but pretty much flush with injector body. and for someone use to gassers, that injector size bout scared me. GEEZ. anywho, time to see if everything works.
Chad

 

got it all back together and there's notable improvement, but it still is dying. also excessive fuel use while testing which consisted of going around the block 2-3 times and probably 20 minutes of idle. My fuel guage moved while sitting in one spot for like 20+ minutes, from above 1/4 tank to below 1/4 tank (just either side of marks). on a 38 gallon tank, that consists of a lot of fuel for mostly idling. think i'll check into the o-rings for other injectors, but not before I have some maybe do a thorough scan. From what I understand about a buzz test, would it be in order? Thanks for the help guys.
Chad

 

ok so my fuel gauge is just being picky, didn't use all the fuel I thought i did. just got an infrared pyro meter and number 8 cylinder is now firing hot but i have at least two on the other bank that are not, #1 & #3. so looks like an investment in new o-rings is in order, might as well be for the other 7 cylinders. truck runs better and smoke just a little less overall. still having problems but should get me to my new job tommorrow morning.
Chad

 

ok if anyone is still following this thread. just cawled around the truck and did some pyro readings. right hand bank has got problems. as far as i can tell, entire bank is 60-70*F cooler than left bank. WTH is that about? #8 wasn't that cold. appearently dude that measured at garage for me, didn't read right hand bank, they are a pain to sight. any ideas what is causing that? could I just have bad o-rings on the whole bank, like I did on #8? i know kwik had talked about hpo, is there a way to test the hpo pressure?? thanks in advance.
Chad

 

Chad, I just can't figure out even with a sick motor why it dies like that. I almost suspect something electrical, maybe even a pcm flaw. Weak everything else would only make it weak IMO. Too bad you couldn't just swap out for another pcm just to test.

You have exceeded my capability, but I'm pulling for you. Hopefully somebody here will come along and bail you out.

 

well my working theory now is maybe o-rings. I'll start changing right bank next, and will probably take the injectors to a shop to have them checked. gotta be fuel, and I'm thinking mechanical. working with electronics, i usually expect something electrical to fail completely or intermittently. this behaviour is consistent and temperature and load sensitive. (although the thermal portion isn't exclusive to mechanical failures). when it surges, if i throttle it, it clears for a few seconds, and if it dies it now restarts and stays clear for a few seconds. something is failing consistently as the engine is warm, and in our triple digit temps, it fails even more once over the hot asphalt. not over heating, dash gauge is good and pyro confirms normal temp range of about 205 after warmup idle. wonder if I have a flaky sensor. kwik was talking about an IPR (i think). Is that the pressure regulator for the hpo. haven't seen that acronym reference in ford manual. if not o-rings possibly an oil or fuel pump, maybe regulatory components and/or sensors in hpo system. will have to check them. need to check manual for sensor check protocols. I'll keep diggin and talking to myself in this thread. let ya know what I find.
Chad