you know how most of us feel fred , with out what you have given freely to us we would not have properly speced our trucks .
thanks for being your self .sarg

 

PAD PAD PAD PAD PAD .....


How's my success rate so far? At least in THIS post, I'm right, eh?

 

Well, Capt, Fred is wrong about the above comment...they do not have a bad hobbit, he's was just mislead and had a drunk wizard...

So, I guess that's included in your 99% rate?

 

Gawdamigty!!! Some folks will just post to see their numbers soar! No wonder we can't get any respectable **** chewin's going on down here!!!

 

Off the subject just a tad, but I've been pondering this question for quite some time. In regards to the "dog" PCM codes. Would an SCT programmer set on 87 octane, perform just as well (or maybe even a little better) than the best PCM program. Or do the PCM programs deal with more variables than an SCT, and therefore produce better overall performance.

Since my truck came from California, I've always wondered about this. Finding that Ford Master Tech who is wise, kind, and knows what the hell he's doing is much easier said than done. Purchasing a SCT would be much simpler. However, I don't want to just chunk that money out the window if it won't make any difference.

 

My gut says that most of the aftermarket chips are only focusing on the ignition, fuel, and shift pressure ot timing... lots of other stuff is probably left stock

Unfortunatly the full knowledge of what tune does what is not provided by Ford ...or by The SCMT type folks

I think it is a crap shoot either way and about the same cost too unless the truck in question is under warranty (free PCMs or flashes until it runs right)

 

Thanks Fred. That's what I was looking for. Ya came through once again.

 

clyde
heres what i would do with your 2000 if it was mine. first would be make sure its in 100% good tune esp.with 116k on the clock. meaning if it has been a while 30k or so. give it a real good tune up. plugs , plug boots. clean the tb and iac's repair or replace any bad or bad looking vac hoses . fuel and air filters. have the dealer check and up date the pcm with the latest flash."this being if you have the latest you will have no problem with a tuner. as a ex. my 05 had pcm code brv0 it was reflashed for 2 very small problems my hex code is now tazp7d7 or when converted over it's now vtz1 and totally different tuner code.
2 nd go into www.sctflash.com look at the excalibrater2 as this the one that truly works. insert your zip code to find a near by dealer . contact and have that dealer custom tune a excal2 to your truck giving you 3 tunes . do not let them sell you a factory universal one sf 9415 a or bthese look like a excal2 but are not with out reprograming. by useing a dealer nearby you can work hand in hand with him on a excal2 to get your truck custom tuned and running the way you want it to. sct's dealer program allows them to move around nearly 400 areas to get the best and shows them just where and how much. plus it's retunable and has software to let you do some on your own and load it up with a usb printer cable and your computer plus on devise tunability , and alot more to find areas such as rear axle ratio chages, tire size changes and areas giving drivibilty problem check out the web site.this is money well spent, you may even find a that dealer has a dyno and will make a pull or 2 to see whats going on before retuning.
just saying if your was mine and this is what i learned playing with my own.

 

I do really appreciate the advise Captchas, Fredvon4 and all the others have provided me. I know I have found the only site I'll ever need to go for advise and insight. You guys freakin rock! As for the spark plugs, I checked plug #1 and it looked good and still had the correct gap but as you suspected the edges are rounded so out they go and in with the same. Does that fuel injector rail block any plug removals? I reckon a universal socket will make life easier, but I will have to buy an inch lb torque tool. Any other tricks up your sleeves? Oh, and to relieve fuel pressure from the system I assume I press the release valve on the fuel injector rail, is that correct?

 

One last observation: a few of the plug caps are loose enough to easily twist them. What is the torque setting and is there any ill effects if that cap does have some wiggle room.

 

to releave the fuel pressure push down on the tire type valve. and watch out for the spray. the little caps that screw onto the plug? plier tight is enough, throw away those plug boots and use new ones it helps a lot as they can cause miss fireing.
i have retuned several v10's now and done them this way .the customer 's have been happy. and i did not have to spend hours of wasted time making the tune for them as every thing was up to date to start with pcm code wise so i had the correct number to start the tune off.

 

Captchas,

I have done most of the things you suggest. I am almost to 130K miles now. I just changed the plugs three weeks ago. BTW, thanks to all who posted excellent plug changing descriptions. I did a search, printed the posts, and changed the plugs and boots with no problems. I was able to change all ten in about 1.5 hours. Probably would have been a four hour job without all of the useful information found here.

After changing plugs (they were original) my gas mileage went from 9.2 to 10.5. This has been steady now through four tanks, so it definitely made a difference. I haven't hooked up the trailer since then, but I'm sure that will help some.

I have also done the air filter, fuel filter, etc. within the last 10K miles. I'll go after the IAC and MAP next.

Don't get me wrong, my truck is no dog. However, I'm always interested in bringing the rig to its full potential.

Thanks for the help, and sorry for high-jacking the thread.

 

wallboyz

The plugs are a pain but you knew that just looking... fuel rail is in the way but better to work around it.. you do NOT want the hassle of removing it (easy) and trying to get it back and sealed (real serious pain)

Most of us (search for complete tools and steps) us an assortment of extensions, swivels and manage to snake out each plug

Ok here are a few tips... if you doing this your self you need compressed air and long nozzle, you need 10 new MotorCraft plugs (DUH)...you need ten new plug boots, you need silicone grease (plug boots) and you need anti seize compound. Final need is a good "click" style inch pound torque wrench... Max torque is 14 foot lbs or 168 inch pounds (1 foot pound equals 12 inch pounds)

Remove COPs
Blow out all around each plug
loosen first plug
Blow out around it
Remove that plug
Put very slight amount of anti seize only on new plug threads and the beveled mating surface of the plug seal (wipe off any excess... a Little is MUCH better then a LOT!)
put the plug in and torque to 120 Inch pounds (10 foot pounds) and loosen next plug, blow out, remove, anti seize, install

Repeat for the rest
After all are in to 120 inch pounds start at the first one and bring up to 155-160 inch pounds (just shy of max) repeat for the rest
Light silicon grease on rubber boot to COP and very light silicone grease inside boot for plug

Install COPs and get a beer you will be tired, achy and not happy

I lay big heavy blankets (van moving pads) over motor and front drive things and lay my big beer belly right on top and have unwilling helper get me crap

 

yep my bear belly causes the same problem and getting up and down tant so easy any mar.

 

And I thought that was a secret technique I myself had come up with

The beer belly part, I mean

The only thing I have to comment on with that entire procedure is that it was far quicker for me to blow out all the holes, loosen all the plugs at once, blow everything out again, remove all plugs, anti-sieze new ones, install, etc. Parallelism. Unless, of course, you need time away from the wife and kids, then do it the "serial" way ...

The serial method works to bring on the Zen though... true communing with the machine