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Ranger not starting

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Old May 30, 2006 | 08:31 AM
  #16  
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seangoodwin
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From: Morgantown, WV
Originally Posted by ColonyPark
The MLPS is easy for sure, but I'm not 100% sure that's the source of your problem. I'd hate for you to keep throwing parts at it. With the description you gave, it sounds like jockying the shifter fixes the problem. If that's the case the MPLS is definitely a likely possibility. However, it may be something as simple as a loose ground somewhere.

Does the clock ever reset to 12:00 when that happens?
No, the close never resets to 12:00. Yep, jockeying the shifter definitely helps. Actually as long as I remember to give it a little tap into park Before I try starting it, then it almost always works. But if I forget and just try to start it, then I might have to shift back and forth between P and N several times and try to start it in each position.

Ok, now for some detective work. Where is the MPLS located? What's it look like? "it could be a loose ground wire" from where...the starter?
Thanks!
 
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Old May 30, 2006 | 10:16 PM
  #17  
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2000_ranger
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I put in a new Starter Relay, took me forever to find it. I bought the online Chilton's for 2000-2005 Rangers. The new starter relay didn't help, still starts occasionally. I'm going outside now to change out the clutch/starter interlock. Let you know how it goes.
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 12:43 AM
  #18  
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I got the plastic end that was on the clutch disconnected, but how do i get the metal pushrod out?
 
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Old May 31, 2006 | 06:31 AM
  #19  
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The switch should be held in place on the clutch push rod by a plastic retainer plate, atop the switch.
It should have 4 retainer tabs on top & one orientation/locating pin, sitting in a socket, arrangment, on the underneath side of the clutch master cylinder.

You don't remove the push rod, you remove the plastic switch retainer/plate & unbutton the locating pin & the switch drops off the clutch push rod.

Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 02:15 AM
  #20  
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Thanks for the help installing that switch pawpaw, did in 3 minutes today what I couldn't figure out in hours yesterday. Unfortunately, the problem is still there. If anyone has any last minute ideas, I could really use them. After all this work, I don't want to end up taking it in to the dealership.

I thought that if I drank enough beer on the first day that the problem would fix itself. Didn't work out as planned.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 08:19 AM
  #21  
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Well those intermittent problems are sometimes the most difficult to test for & run down.

Seems like you gave up on testing with your voltmeter & just began replacing parts, as I read you've now replaced the battery, starter relay, clutch/starter interlock switch & the starter motor.

So the only part not replaced is the ignition switch!!!! lol

You've said the old starter & solenoid checked out ok, but I'm not clear if you put it back on, or not!!!!

Anyway, seems to me the only part you haven't addressed as a possibility, is the ignition switch, as power to operate the starter circuit, must first come through it, then to the clutch/starter interlock switch, then to the starter relay, then to the starter solenoid, then to the starter motor.

Seems to me, the fact that the problem is intermittent & when you have it, there are no clicking sounds, suggests it's related to a intermittent, switching/electrical contact problem.

SO, when this happens, maybe you could use some help, with someone holding the ignition switch in the start position, while you break out that volt meter again & check for power coming out of the ignition switch, or maybe a 12 volt test light with gator clips to hold the test leads in place while you turn the ignition switch, to see if it's "start contacts" are misbehaving.

If not, then follow the power to the clutch/starter intelock switch, then to the starter relay & finally to the starer solenoid & see where it's intemittent.

Suspect switch contacts, wire strands, wire crimp contact connectors, sockets, relay coils & their contacts.

In other words, begin your troubleshoot again, with your voltmeter, or test light & try to duplicate the no start condition & see where you're loosing the 12 volt power, in the starter actuating circuit.

BTW just because you've replaced some components, doesn't make them good, as I've seen bad parts, right out of the box!!!!
Continue to suspect everything!!!!

So don't give up, there isn't much left to check out, I believe your about to have success.

Keep us posted on your progress.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 02:22 AM
  #22  
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Thanks for the confidence boost. I agree, the problem's got to the close. I had to work late today, but I'll get started again tomorrow after work.
 
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