Well this is the beginning of the project......I think. I'm still at work, so don't have too much time to write about it, but I think I will be using this as donor for the frame, brakes, steering....etc.....
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/158027517.html
Looks like it may just work out....this time.....
More to come....

 

Well, here goes.....
My truck is a '65 F100 LWB. Check my gallery for her ugliyutifullness....I traded a beat up Honda motorcycle for her. Ends up having a 390 with top-loader 4spd. And so my Ford days begin....The P.O. didn't know how to adjust the clutch, I figured it out, but by the time I did, it was too far gone, so now she has a Stage II clutchmasters kit, that I had a blast installing. Ends up the wheel bearing goes out, I replace and it seems I tighten it too much and it fails again...this time damaging the spindle. Truck has been parked since last fall. I attempted to go with a disk brake upgrade but the front end that I bought had a damaged spindle as well. So instead of going to Pick-n-Pull to get parts I figure I'll just buy a later model and swap parts....in reviewing the forums, it seems it will be easier to just swap my sheet metal to that frame. The truck above is my hot ticket! I'll pick it up this weekend and let the project begin! It will also give me a chance to clean the new frame and do any needed maintenance without the sheet metal in the way. Plenty of pictures and questions to come.....

 

Craig, I am not sure this is correct. I think you need to do some measuring - the cab mounts and the bed mounts are likely in different locations, and it seems to me that the frame under the bed is wider on the later truck.

The only real advantage to the later truck is the disk brakes and power steering - and those peices will bolt to your 65 frame.

What is the advantage with the new frame?

 

The other advantages I can think of is the posi-rear end, and a gas tank thats not in the cab. The wider frame should benefit the handling as well, I would imagine. From what I've read in the forums, the mounts should be the same. If not, I'll be working on my truck next to a buddy's machine shop and we should be able to fabricate new mounts. I'll try and pull a thread off the other forum.....
Found some info here:
<A href="https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-389185-Converting">Converting" target=_blank>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-389185-Converting">Converting

This one has even more info:

65">https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-461207-65%20body%2079%20frame%2072%20motor">65 body 79 frame 72 motor
It seems the cab will mount fine, it's the bed that will have issues. I have issues with rust in my bed anyway and haven't opened that can of worms yet...

 

Well, seems like you have done some thinking on this - one thing, you are not locked in so if it should prove to be a problem you can always go back to the 65 frame.

As to the posi - if you are talking about a ford 9" rear, they remained the same for many years. Ford changed where the spring shackles mounted, and some cars (like the mustangs) had shorter axels - but mostly you can swap them around as you wish. I have both a traction lock and a detroit locker I am saving for my 59 - I am not so sure the locker is what I want so, if not, I can go with the traction lock.

Please keep us updated - and when you are ready to lift the cab and box around let us know - we can have a working party help with the heavy lifting.


btw, which engine are you keeping? I could get interested in the other.

 

As usual, I did some more research after I posted the above. In the 61 to 66 forum I discovered that the frames are the same from the back of the cab to the front bumper.

After the rear cab mount Ford made the frame longer and wider. If you want to keep your rear wheels centered in the fender opening of your box you will need to section a couple of inches out of the frame. You can also just move your box forward on the frame and let the wheels stay off-center.

The added width requires you to drill new holes in the bottom of your box.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ght=frame+swap

FROM A POST MADE BY FordBoypete:
"Fredmister,
My 66 F-100 sits on a 79 F-150 chassis. As ddavidv and JO wilker attest, the frame is identical to configuration of 65 & up F-Series Frames from rear cab mounts forward.

As has been stated the "CA" or Cab to Axle area is different as it is both wider and longer. The net gain however is only 2" in length or wheelbase as I think the 65-72 beds are +2" compared to the 73-79 beds. 66 Bed must be re-mounted by drilling new holes in bed floor, or putting the sides of 65-72 bed onto a later 73-79 bed floor assy.

Either method accomodates greater width that makes front & rear axles equally wide (same track width). Older 65-72 beds req' redrilling, at which point I fudged that +2" difference so I don't have a large gap between Cab & Bed. The tear drop shape of the bedside rear wheel openings make it easy to blend the "fudge Job". . . .

FBp"

 

Hmmm...I like what he says about putting the sides of the '65 bed on the later model bed floor. How would this be done? I ask because the front of my bed (closest to cab) is rusted through, but the sides are still good for the most part.
I've never done in reading into posi or detroit. What is the difference between a traction lock (posi?) and a detroit locker? I don't think my '65 has either...although it is a 9" with 3.25 gears.
I'd love to have the help, but I'm not going to be around town. My truck is up in Calaveras County in a town smaller than the amount of people that bought Edsels!
I'll be keeping the 390 and top-loader and plan on tearing down and rebuilding both eventually. So you have first dibs on the 302 thats in the new truck *****, unless someone in my family needs it, they all drive Fords! The rest of the 78 will be parted out as well.

 

If the inner fenders on your 65 are still good, I would just cut the old floor out and weld in the new.

Trac loc has clutches that break free and let each side turn at its own speed. They are supposed to operate at around 500 ftlbs, but never do. They quickly wear down and break free at much less torque - at some point they are no better than an open rear.

Lockers have no clutches, they have a different way of locking the two axles together and, because of this, they make a clicking noise when making a corner. I understand that they add oversteer to the vehicle, making it very hard to turn on rain slick or iced over roads.

I decide I did not need 4wd, but do not entirely trust 2wd on some of the trails and fields I drive on. One or the other should help offroad.

 

The donor truck was dropped off Friday night but I had a bachelor party to go to at Salt Springs Resevoir so didn't start digging in until Sunday. But I managed to get the front clip off, and with the help of a backhoe got the cab and the engine and tranny out! I couldn't believe we progressed so far, but the dismantling is the easy part! Unfortunatley I didn't get any pictures. I brought the brake booster back with me to Sac so I can try to rebuild/clean. When I head back up this weekend I plan on cleaning the frame real good and then paint it. The questions that have come up so far are:
1. What kind of paint would you recommend and should I prime first?
2. Pressure washer or Sandblaster?
3. I plan on lubing the king-pins and checking/replacing all bushings. Is there anything else I should check out?
4. What is the cloth type part that goes between the steering column and the power steering unit? I need to replace it.

 

1. I use Rustoleum Simi-gloss black - priming is not required but gives a better job.
2. Frame has to be clean and grease free. I used a pressure washer followed by hand washing with dish soap.
3. Steering joints, brake and gas lines, wiring left on the frame.
4. It is called a rag joint - looks like the sidewall of a tire. Napa has them. Universal and GM kits also work, but are not as thick and will fail sooner.

 

C'mon guys you're gonna wear ***** out! He's gonna get tired of answering my stupid questions!
I started looking into the Rust Bullet, and Zero Rust and all that, but for my purposes I don't think something that quality (think $$$) suits me. Where do I get the Rustoleum stuff? I tried Home Depot/Lowes.com to no avail....
Speaking of the wiring, I'm wondering what can be left on the frame and what I can take off. I'm thinking I'll have to play it by ear though. I know the reverse lights for sure and can't think of anything else.

 

Rustoleum is in all major hardware stores - Ace has it here - not the cheapest but is one of the best - seems like it was $6 or $8 a quart.

 

Ah, yes another question! How much should I get? I was guessing about a quart a coat. I figure I should probably do at least 2 coats. I found some industrial outdoor Rustoleum at Home Depot for about $25 a gallon but it's "alluminum" color and black would be preferable.

 

With two quarts you should have enough left over to do the inner panels of your fenders and your core support - a lot depends on if you use primer. Rustoleum has its own primer for rusty steel that I use.

The nice part about a brand like Rustoleum Simi-gloss Black is that you can buy a can now and one next year and not worry about color match. You can brush, spray, or roller it on. When I do pipes or round rods I wear plastic gloves and dip a shop rag into the pant and rub it around the pipe.

 

Thanks for the tips! Although now I'm thinking of not coating the frame. I really want to get her back on the road and in my own garage! It will speed up the process if I don't worry about it now and just give the donor frame a good cleaning.
BTW....I've got all the '78 parts up for sale or trade....