When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 69 360 with the regular points system. My truck seemed a little sluggish so I was messing with the distributer cap to see if I could ajust it. Do I want the engine to be at the highest rpm for the set idle on the carb(What I mean is without touching the carb idle but with turning the distributer cap should I stop turning the cap when the engine gets to its highest rpm). I know I should hook a timing light up to it but for the time being what should I do? Plus for adjusting the two barrel carb to set the idle screws i turn them in all the way and back them out 1 and a half turns, right? Is this the only adjustment I need to worry about on this carb other than the float level? How do I know if im running too lean or too rich?
sorry if the questions sound stupid but thanks for all the help.
-brad
The way I set my timing is to turn the distributor until I get the highest, smoothest RPM possible and then I turn it back until it just starts to drop off again.
As far as the fuel mixture screws, 1 1/2 turns out is your initial setting after a carb rebuild. When the engine is running, back them out one at a time to reach the highest RPM possible, keeping both sides as even as possible.
The best way to adjust fuel mixture is to have a vacuum guage and setting the mixtures to achieve the highest, smoothest amount of vacuum. The same is true for ignition timing. If you don't have a guage, you can still get pretty close without one.
Remember to re-adjust your idle settings after you make your adjustments.
what is your total timing? advancing the timing to max idle may very well give you too much total timing and cause detonation under load. personally i do not think that it is good for the engine to guess at settings if you do not know the total picture. use a timing light and sleep at night. many people do exactly what you are asking and get away with it but many also end up with cracked ring lands and hammered valve seats. what you are suggesting can be used after you set up everything and know what the advance will be. the unfortunate part is many people talk about advancing the timing until it pings and then back it off but that is way too late. if you can hear it pinging then you are past the point when detonation begins. hawkrod
If you experience detonation under load, you retard the timing by 2* and test again until you don't get detonation. Detonation in naturally aspirated engines is harmful if left for a prolonged period of time, but is deadly to a turbo powered engine in a very short amount of time.