fuel tank switch
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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fuel tank switch
Hey guys. I am working on a 77 f-150 that had dual tanks. I am only going to use the rear tank and the fuel tank switch is missing. Is there any way to get the fuel guage to work right by crossing wires off the the five wire plug. if so which wires do I cross? I don't want to buy a new switch because the middle tank is missing. Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Hello there.
This should be pretty simple to do. I would make up a jumper wire with blade terminals, instead of splicing anything so you can undo what you did later on if you decide too.
According to the wiring diagram I have,
There is an orange wire in the plug, that goes to your fuel guage.
There is a Green/Red stripe wire coming from the aft sending unit, and just a Green wire coming from the mid tank sending unit.
There is another orange wire, witha possible hash mark on it, (although the wiring diagram is unclear on this), that goes to F-3 on the Fuse panel, 7.5 amp fuse, and a brown/white wire that goes to the tank selector valve.
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Hook the Green/Red stripe wire to the orange wire going to the fuel guage, and you should be set to go.
Remove the 7.5 amp fuse from the F-3 position of the fuse panel marked aux fuel, just next to the 3 amp F-2 fuse for the instrument ilumination, just incase you hooked up the wrong orange wire in the plug, so you don't damage the sender. You can test the wires and make sure which one is which by hooking up a test light. With the aux fuel fuse removed, only the fuel gauge wire should be hot in run.
Hope this helps, let us know.
This should be pretty simple to do. I would make up a jumper wire with blade terminals, instead of splicing anything so you can undo what you did later on if you decide too.
According to the wiring diagram I have,
There is an orange wire in the plug, that goes to your fuel guage.
There is a Green/Red stripe wire coming from the aft sending unit, and just a Green wire coming from the mid tank sending unit.
There is another orange wire, witha possible hash mark on it, (although the wiring diagram is unclear on this), that goes to F-3 on the Fuse panel, 7.5 amp fuse, and a brown/white wire that goes to the tank selector valve.
--------
Hook the Green/Red stripe wire to the orange wire going to the fuel guage, and you should be set to go.
Remove the 7.5 amp fuse from the F-3 position of the fuse panel marked aux fuel, just next to the 3 amp F-2 fuse for the instrument ilumination, just incase you hooked up the wrong orange wire in the plug, so you don't damage the sender. You can test the wires and make sure which one is which by hooking up a test light. With the aux fuel fuse removed, only the fuel gauge wire should be hot in run.
Hope this helps, let us know.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Are you not going to use the tank switching valve either ?
Otherwise, just don't flip the switch to the tank you are removing.
I have a schematic of the fuel system if everything for the 2 nd tank is going to be removed.
Otherwise, just don't flip the switch to the tank you are removing.
I have a schematic of the fuel system if everything for the 2 nd tank is going to be removed.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Then You can get the dash/cluster set-up from a single tank system truck.
This system eliminates the dual switch.
Here is the circuit pic .
Center right of page.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...strations.html
This system eliminates the dual switch.
Here is the circuit pic .
Center right of page.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...strations.html
