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Allright- just what in the heck is that??? an intake made for blower for a 400? Why wouldn't someone do that for a hot 400 build? Looks kinda like fun. Not a M for sure but a 400???
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Last edited by roger dowty; May 6, 2006 at 02:36 AM.
i was just looking for a blower to fit my 351m cuz i am putting a 49 ford f-6 cab and front clip on my 78 f-150 frame. lots of extra hood room from top to bottom. to fit a blower under the hood so you couldnt see it. plus get lots of extra power.
the 'why' chorus is sounded because not many who know much about the 351M would waste the time and $$ on it without converting it to a 400 1st. The 351M is a poorly modified version of the 400- which can be a great motor when built right. All it takes is pistons and crank.
Sounds like a great project! This is the place for good info on the 335 series.
well i have a 400 crank sitting aound from when i blew a rod out of my 400. had a new 351m so i added some performance parts and that is what i have now.
You will need forged 7:1 pistons and run at least 12psi to see a significant difference over normally aspirated 11:1 pistons in order to justify the investment. There’s the rub. You will need a steel crank and rods according to most blower providers.
I have ran up to 16psi with a cast crank on a well prepared non O-Ringed block without incident. However I was lucky.
In the early 90's screw blowers became popular in Drag Racing. of course we were running 40+lbs of boost on 410 inch Hemi's, hardly applicable here but they are still around and for good reason. Point is, screw blowers have many benefits over roots type. It's worth investing some time in the subject before jumping in the proverbial lake
When compared to other methods of forced induction, setting up a roots style blower is probably the least complicated, low risk investment you can make. I'll suggest a compromise over the last post that should provide trouble free operation.
First of all, go with a 400 crank. A 351M crank is not a bad thing but the piston's height is very tall and selection sucks. Tim Meyer has a set of inexpensive Forged, zero deck, 400 pistons that can be dished to 32cc and give a final 8:1 compression with an open chamber head. Any lower compression will require custom pistons. Figure $800+ and an unknown waiting period to have them made.
On a street engine, 8-9psi with 8:1 compression would be better than 12psi with 7:1. You may loose 50HP on the top end but you'll pick up a few at lower RPM with the higher compression. Besides, with over 600HP on tap I don't think you'll have much to complain about.
The iron 400 crank is beefier than other makes and has a longer stroke. At moderate boost levels and a reasonable 5500 rpm max, a steel crank is not necessary.
Lastly, cam selection is not that different from a normally aspirated engine except you should pay attention to Lobe Separation Angle. Look for something in the 112-114 range.
it started life as an Offy dual port, there is enough meat on the flange to cover 4V ports but the internal porting is 2V. one would do well to remove the rest of the divider in that particular situation.
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