Hello all,

I had something strange happen to me earlier while in my truck and I was hoping someone may have some advice as to what my problem(s) may be.

First off, my truck is a 1990 full size EB with the 351W and 5.8 liter engine. I had been driving for an hour or so, off and on, as I ran some errands. I started to hear a strange noise coming from under the truck that I had never heard before. It seemed to be coming from the center portion of the truck, not the back end or engine. It sounded like a low-pitched whining, almost like hearing a bulldozer or something running from a few blocks away. More of a background noise. (Sounded like it may have even been coming from somewhere near the catalytic converters, not sure.)

Anyway, the truck ran fine but for the noise, so I decided to finish my errands. As I was leaving somewhere though, I started the truck and the noise was still there, so hit the gas while in park, revved the engine just for kicks, and the noise disappeared. Curious.

I was still thinking about it when the next thing happened. I was pulling out of a driveway which had a decent incline to it, perhaps 35-40 degrees. While I was waiting to pull into traffic, sitting on the incline, my engine stalled. First time it has happened since I owned the thing. (About 3 months. Same for the noise - First time.) Well, the truck would turn over fine, but it acted as though it was not getting any gas. (It has half a tank full, so that's not the problem). It started once or twice, but literally stalled within 2 seconds once more, still not getting any fuel.

I finally got some help and pushed the truck back up into the parking lot and on level ground... and of course the truck promptly started again on the first try. I drove it home, about 4 miles or so, with no problem at all and it ran like usual.

My problem is, I'm worried this may start happening more and I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this or may know what this is. I'm not even sure if the noise and the stalling are connected, but it seems suspicious since both happened today for the first time.

I just recently, (about 3 weeks ago), had a tune-up, oil change and replaced the fuel filter. Also, it has a brand new fuel tank. I suppose the new filter could be clogged, but my first thought was maybe my fuel pump is going out. I've never had any of the warning lights come on though, so I don't know.

Anyway, any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated. I apologize for the long post, I can get a bit wordy. Also, before anyone even mentions it, no, I didn't pull the codes. I don't have the machine, am afraid to drive it to an Autozone for fear of getting stranded, and I can't seem to get the paper clip method to work for me for some reason.

Thanks again.

C.

 

Is your check engine light lit?

If it is (or even if it is not) you need to pull the codes from the computer. It is very easy and can be done with no tools at all, but for a paper clip. Go to this site and read up on pulling codes, and post back what you get.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

 

Definitely check for codes first, but it sounds like possibly your fuel pump is out. That would explain the noise you heard, (it is hard to pin point the location of the sound). You can sort of verify this by sitting on the side of the drivers seat with the door open and turning the key to RUN. Don't try to start the truck, just turn it forward and listen for the whine of the fuel pump from the back of the truck. If it doesn't kick on at all or it sounds wierd you'll know. Regardless you still need to check for codes, because there may be additional problems.

 

Ditto to what has been said already. Codes first! If the noise was indeed from the region of the truck that you mentioned, you may be dealing with a catalytic converter with broken innards which can lead to a kind of clog in the exhaust. Enough of a blockage in there will stall out the engine easily. But again, this is pure speculation based on what was described. PULL THE CODES FIRST.

 

Well, I finally got the paper clip method to work so that I could read the codes on my truck. I ran it through three times just to make sure I was doing it correctly and the codes matched. Here are the codes that I got, along with the definitions off of the fordfuelinjection.com site.

14 -- Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

18 -- IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded.

33 -- EGR valve opening not detected.

87 -- (KOEO) Fuel pump primary circuit failure. When the FP relay was activated by the EEC, voltage was not detected on the control circuit.
(CM) Voltage was not detected on Fuel Pump Monitor while the engine was running.

Admittedly, I'm not mechanically inclined at all so I have no clue really what any of those specifically mean. It's pretty clear though that it is the last one, the 87, that is causing my problem. Does this mean the whole fuel pump needs replacing? Any clarification on what all the codes mean in layman's terms would be greatly appreciated.

Again, thanks for the help already. You guys are great here.

C.

 

First thing I would check is to see if the inertia switch has been tripped, cutting off power to the fuel pump. Mine is behind the passanger side kick panel on my 93, but im not sure where it is onyours.

 

Code 14 is a failure or, at the very least, a loss of input from the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. While its possible that this is part of the problem, the "test" to establish that it is indeed failed requires some tedious electrical procedures. This code will ONLY come up as a memory code. NEVER as an on-demand code. Its a very unlikley culprit as well. The PIP sensor is essentially the "trigger" for the spark timing... think of it as the points in an older vehicle. The sensor is an inductive trigger which can be adversly affected by strong radio signals and magnetic fields.

Code 18 indicates a loss of engine RPM (SPOUT) signal from the IDM/TFI module to the ECA. Make certain the SPOUT connector is fully seated in its receptacle. Further testing would require having the IDM/TFI module tested. (Most major parts stores will do this for free). This may be inter-related to the previous code as both deal with spark timing.

Code 33 is indicative of a problem with the movement of the EGR valve and the first check should be the vacuum line between the EGR valve and the EVR solenoid. Inspect for cracks and repair if necessary. If the vacuum line is intact, check the EGR valve for proper movement and clean to remove debris that may cause binding. If the EGR valve moves readily, apply vacuum and verify that the valve actualy holds when vacuum is applied. If not, replace the EGR valve. If it DOES hold under vacuum, replace the EVP sensor atop the EGR valve and re-administer the KOER test. Cleaning and inspection of the EGR valve requires either sucking on the vacuum barb and watching the pintle unseat and re-seat through the holes in the side of the valve or appliying vacuum with a pump and doing the same. Cleaning can be accomplished with throttle body cleaner carefully applied and the repeated movement of the pintle either with a vacuum supply or with a small screwdriver through one of the holes in the valve.

Code 87 indicates a failure in the primary fuel pump circuit. To troubleshoot, make certain the inertia switch has not been tripped. If not, then check for battery voltage at the LT.BLUE/ORANGE wire on the fuel pump relay (FPR). If there is battery voltage present (12VDC) check the wire itself back to pin 22 of the ECA (EEC-IV computer). The resistance through the wire should NOT EXCEED 5 ohms. Lack of voltage indicates a dead interia switch if the switch is engaged. If there IS voltage but the code still exists, replace the FPR.

There are more details to be given should any of these prove to be the issue. I have only touched briefly on the possible causes and how to check for them.

 

I truly appreciate the help. Unfortunately, I'll have to try and find someone who knows more about these things to actually help me administer all of the tests mentioned above.. as sadly, most of that went right over my head. I don't even know where most of the things I'm supposed to be testing are located. heh ( i.e. Inertia Switch, Spout Connector, EGR valve, ECA, etc.) Sorry. I'm hopeless... Just never was good with these types of things. Thanks.

 

Might I suggest a book that could shed quite a bit of light on things? "How to Tune and Modify Ford Fuel Injection" by Ben Watson. Goes into great detail and explains everything in very concise terms. Even explains basic electrical theories used with certain components. The book's ISBN is 0-7603-0503-X. Any bookseller/library in the country should be able to track it down for you.