Tranny help
Could the transfer case be causing this?(maybe trying to switch from 4 wd to netural?) I checked the wires to the switch & there is power to the button.
Any ideas on where to start looking? Thanks, Mike
The transmission problem could be an indication it's nearing the end of its service life, and thus may need rebuilding by a local reputable shop. But, first, I would do the next best thing. That is, to get a filter and fluid change done at your earliest convenience.
If you're not the DIY type, have it done at a trustworthy shop. It might be worthwhile to have the torque-converter drained, and if possible, flushed clean. Then once the new filter and oil pan have been properly installed, put the required amount of new Castrol (my choice for the conventional type) Dexron III/Mercon ATF, or if you can afford it, fill it with one of the synthetic varieties; "Mobil-1" or "B&M" would be my choice. It could take a dozen or more quarts, but it's still less expensive than a complete trans-overhaul.
NOTE: Start with about 4 or 5 quarts, then add a pint (1/2 quart) at a time, checking the level each time fluid is added, or you could find that you've OVERfilled and will have to siphon off, or pump out the excess; a messy job! Be sure to take the time to cycle the transmission through the gears right before checking after fluid is added, so as to bleed any air present out of the system pathways, or again, the fluid level reading will be higher then it actually is.
Of course, with the vehicle parked ONLY on LEVEL ground, the engine must be running with the transmission WARMED UP and in Neutral or Park whenever checking the fluid level, or it will be reading could be considerably inaccurate.
If that doesn't make the transmission run more reliably, I'm afraid your only option is to rebuild it.
The electrically-controlled transfer case tends to fail due to the servo motor assembly mounted to the rear face of the transfer case. If it's heavily corroded (white and or rusty colored crud on its surface) it might be seized up internally, as well. New ones are moderately to very expensive, depending on wher it was manufactured.
There are ways of testing the servo with a "hot wire"-type test lead from the battery positive terminal, but one needs to know what he's doing or the servo could be rendered inoperable, if it wasn't already.
It just so happens I have a transfer case from a '90 Ranger 4x4, with what appears to be a good OEM servo unit on it. I was thinking of replacing my manual transfer case with this one, but could go either way at this point.
At any rate, good luck with your "remedial endeavors".
Last edited by Hooked-on-4WD; May 5, 2006 at 05:02 AM.



