When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've got the old 3 on the tree transmission in my '77 F100. I would really like to make better use of the power that is trapped inside my 300 I6.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a better transmission? I'd like something that will pull strong, but also won't run out of gears on the highway. Is there such a thing, or am I asking too much?
Along the same lines, I've got a Dana 44 rear end with 3.07 gears. Who knows of a better rear end / transmission setup?
I'm not the best person to answer your questions...most of my experience with these trucks has been with automatics...however, I think just a simple gear change would be a great help for you. The 300 I6 is a really good engine....those 3.07 gears aren't helping you at all though. I'd go for 3.55 or 3.73. Both of these will make a significant difference for you and still let you run the highway. You could put a 4 speed tranny for a lower first gear but any of the standard 4 speeds for these trucks I think will still be 1:1 ratio in high and you've got that now with the 3 speed. I'm sure some others will pop in here with more knowledge in your application.
I read a thread about problems with "off the line torque" and wondered if my diff gears could be causing the same problem for me. My clutch is and has always been "sticky". I have to let the clutch go slowly to get going (especially with a load), and I'm sure that has resulted in hot spots on my clutch disk, pressure plate, and flywheel. I replaced the clutch maybe ten years ago, and it was great for a while, but soon started sticking again. If I give it enough gas that I can let the clutch go more quickly, I start spinning tires, and that doesn't go over well with the wife, cops, or some grandmaw at the redlight next to me. Because of the sticky clutch, I tend to not even drive my truck in the rain.
So, long story short... will changing my diff gears help shorten my clutch?
I would say yes. Changing the gears will actually increase the torque that you can put to the pavement but that's what you need (especially with a load). The resulting ratio change will let you get the clutch out quicker without spinning the tires. I think what's happening in your case is that you end up spinning the tires to keep from slipping the clutch so much...does that make sense???
That makes sense. Driving in town means that you can't just take off as fast as you (or your truck) wants to. You have to hold back because of the guy in front of you (my truck doesn't like to be held back!)
On the hauling side, mostly I just haul my boat out of the river. Getting off the ramp without spinning the wet tires on a slippery boat ramp and without riding the clutch halfway up is a bit tricky. I had hoped that there might be a good solution with changing gears.
Anytime. The gear change is not difficult and not that costly either...I'm not familiar with the Dana 44 but I'd guess gears are probably around $125 -$150 new.
Which combo? The engine and the transmission? Or the engine, transmission and the rear end?
When my rear end broke the pinion gear some years ago, I asked everyone I knew how to identify what kind of rear end I had. 90% of them said it was a Ford 9". It wasn't until I opened the cover and cleaned out all the crud that I found the 44 stamped in the casing. I've wondered ever since if the Dana 44 was at the low end of the options for that year, but I have no idea. It seems to be a very popular model for light duty and off-road differentials, but in combination with a 300? I would think there'd be a heavier duty rear end in there.
BTW: when I replaced the gears, I took out 3.07, and put in 3.07. Was that a stock ratio? Is that optimal for pulling a boat out of the river? Can it be better?
put a new process 4 speed in it. you will get a very low 1st gear ( some thing like 6.8 to 1). same with reverse. than it has good spacing from 2nd to 4th (4th is a 1 to 1 gear ratio.) also only 2nd thur 4th is syncronized. you can typacally start out in 2nd if you aren't pulling a trailer or have a load on.
put a new process 4 speed in it. you will get a very low 1st gear ( some thing like 6.8 to 1). same with reverse. than it has good spacing from 2nd to 4th (4th is a 1 to 1 gear ratio.) also only 2nd thur 4th is syncronized. you can typacally start out in 2nd if you aren't pulling a trailer or have a load on.
I have the NP435 your talking about, and yes it is quite the transmission!! What do you mean by syncronized? If you go fast enough in reverse you can sure hear it whine, it also applies to granny gear.
syncronized tannys you can upshift and downshift from gear to gear, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th easally with out doudle cluching and what not. it is hard to go from 2nd to 1st in the NP435 with out grinding or reving up the motor to get it in. or when you get stuck and try to rock it by going 2nd to reverse. lots of grinding.